Met up with Glenn, Ryan and Thessa in the backyards of Waimanalo to explore a new Windward ridge. Many thanks to Nalo Bob for letting us park at his place.

Bears, cats and horses

Only two are animals, the other is a mineral.

Open field

Walking across the open fields under sunny skies. It was going to be a beautiful day. Or at least that’s what somebody said. It wasn’t Guy Hagi.

Got Milk?

Lani Moo left the ranch in 2001. The University of Hawaii is slated to acquire all 360 acres.

Stay to the right

Ryan heading into the forest. Stay to the right of the gully. One of many gullies.

Nice ferns

Surprisingly we picked up a path through the ferns. Hunter’s trail?

Bushwhacking

The trail ended at the base of the steep ridge. No faded ribbons. No signs of civilization detritus.

Steady climb

Where’s that uki grass when you need it? What’s that noise? Rain.

Whichever way works

We clawed our way up with the help of deep rooted plants and sheer upper body strength.

Break spot

Pausing at the “flattest” spot we found on the steep ridge. Photo by Thessa Bugay.

Back to climbing

Climbing and slipping on the wet carpet of pine needles as we made our way up.

Swing

Short webbing and a tall reach helped us past this tricky spot, which lead us to…

One branch at a time

…another crumbly rock face. Three of us climbed and perched on a shaky tree for a better look. A sapling marked the route up. Flashbacks. Was that lightning? Glenn took off his shoes for traction and slowly climbed to the top, mindful of dropping rocks on us. More rain. Glenn lashed webbing at the top for the rest of us to follow.

Falling rocks

Ryan making his way up. Two good sized rocks in rapid succession tumbled down the cliff. The first missed. The second exploded. Near his head. Strawberry season. Time to get a helmet.

Climb or contour

We alternated between climbing on the crumbly rocks until thick clumps of trees forced us to contour to the side and then back again on the slick rocks, mindful of the drops masked by the heavy growth.

Tree ridge

Thessa threading her way through the trees.

One sock at a time

Some people use spikes. Others use wet socks. To each their own.

Hug that tree

We thought the worst was behind us. Until we saw another steep rock face. Then we discovered a contour trail to the summit. We took the easy option.

Summit

Group photo at the 1,513′ summit left to right: Glenn, Thessa, myself and Ryan. The original plan was to go down Hahaione Windward, but strawberries and weather dictated otherwise. We recalibrated our plans to head down the Leeward side.

One Shoe Ridge

And now you know the rest of the story. If anybody knows the name of this ridge, please enlighten me, until then we’re calling it “One Shoe Ridge” in memory of our collective experience.

Windward view

The clouds started to clear. The rain stopped. The cruel irony.

Pyramid Rock

A short rocky climb.

Running on empty

Wet, cold and exhausted. Not necessarily in that order.

Enjoy the view

Enjoy the company.

Dike crossing

Watch your step.

Hahaione Valley

Now we have a view!

New Mariner’s Ridge

We noticed a lot more ribbons on the trail from last time.

Photo bomber

We skirted the water tank fence to make our way down to the road.

All pau

The crew walking back to civilization. Shout out to Jasmin for picking us up. She even had piping hot nilagang baboy in the trunk for us.

GPS Tracks

The crumbly, overgrown and steep hike covered a paltry 2.36 miles. Pouring rain magnified the difficulty of the ridge. Post hike meal at Teddy’s Bigger Burgers. Wrong burger. Free burger. One side of staples to go.

I had read that HTMC legendary hiker Al Miller stated that Kalahaku Ridge could not be done. End of story. Time and other hikes passed, I then stumbled upon Cory Yap’s blog about his group summiting said ridge. My interest was renewed. Photo by Thessa Bugay.

Loaded for bear

David, Jose, Ryan and Thessa rounded out the crew today. It was decided that we would do a camp over on the mountain so as not to come down at night. That is why we carried bulky and heavy overnight packs. Something we would regret later in the hike. But it seemed and sounded like a good plan. Ryan passed out MREs or military rations to us. Somebody forgot to grab one. Photo by Thessa Bugay.

Gated hike

My friend, Glenn was nice enough to drop us off at the trailhead on the Windward side of the island.

On the trail

We followed a clearly used jeep trail that lead to somewhere. But somewhere was not our destination.

Red dirt

Ten minutes later, we veered off the trail and scrambled up an exposed area of red dirt that lead to the ridge. Pieces of a crashed RC plane lay strewn at the bottom. This was somebody’s playground.

Goodbye civilization

Looking back at what we were leaving behind for the weekend. Photo by David Concepcion.

Tangled branches we weave

It helps to be a contortionist on these overgrown ridges. Photo by David Concepcion.

First tooth?

We rounded this small hill that we thought was the first tooth. How wrong we were.

Gynecomostia?

Hikers that are exposed and eat too much lillikoi on trails are prone to developing passion boobs. After Ryan came to terms with his newfound swelling, we climbed up a steeply pitched hill to be confronted with a rock face. Welcome to the first tooth. Ryan had the best seat in the house. Literally. He was sitting on the only section that allowed one to sit. The rest of us had to stand and hold onto the rock face. Not comfortable with a heavy pack on your back. Jose contoured around to find another route. The rest of us contemplated climbing up, but heavy packs and shaky handholds dissuaded us from trying. Jose eventually found a way to the top and dropped webbing to haul our backpacks and ourselves up.

Burrowing ahead

Where is the trail? These teeth had a severe case of plaque called overgrowth. Photo by David Concepcion.

Rope!

We soon found traces from the last group that had done this ridge. Such ropes were handled with kid gloves if any, as most were rotted and one actually snapped while climbing up.

Windward pimple

This rock formation on the right bore a passing resemblance to the pimple on the Lanihuli side of Kalihi Saddle.

Climbing down

Ryan climbing down the fourth tooth? A nearby tree made the descent easier.

Slightly higher

Looking back to see how little ground we had covered. Overgrowth was insane.

Climbing up

Jose climbing up the fifth tooth?

Going back down

Going down the backside of the fifth tooth? Overgrowth masked the ridge to the point where we couldn’t tell if it was a steep drop off or a gradual drop. In this case, it looked like a steep drop but once we started going down, the descent wasn’t that bad.

Falling rock!

David peering down the backside of the sixth tooth? As he was coming down, we heard a huge crashing sound as Jose had dislodged a good sized rock and sent it bouncing down to the valley floor. Got our blood flowing as we thought somebody had fallen off the ridge. Lucky it was just a rock.

Bailout ridge?

We saw tattered webbing attached to a tree that could have been the bailout ridge that Cory Yap’s group went down on their first try.

Panoramic view

Click here for the larger image.

Last tooth?

Looking at our last major obstacle to finishing the teeth. The seventh and final tooth!

Scrambling up

Heavy packs and crazy overgrowth had sapped our energy at this point. David and Ryan struggled to get over the first rock obstacle. Jose shed his pack and went down to help them with their packs. What a sherpa. Photo by Thessa Bugay.

Almost there

After all of us made it over the exposed rock face, we dropped down and crossed a narrow dike. All that was left was a steep climb up through more overgrowth. Joy. We were pretty much spent. Daylight was rapidly fading.

Are we there yet?

Ryan making the final push to the top of the tooth. David had run out of gas at the bottom. All of us were totally exhausted. David and Thessa ended up roommates again and enjoyed the live music drifting up from the valley. Several furry friends paid them a visit. Not the cute ones. During the course of traversing over the teeth, the thick overgrowth had claimed our water bottles, Thessa’s flashlight and Ryan’s GPS Garmin. Price of admission to the teeth.

Trail clearing

Jose making his way through more overgrowth at the top.

It’s not the Ritz

Under the cover of darkness, we set up camp. Ryan cleared a suitable area for our tents. Trees provided a wind break and we munched on our MREs, that were surprisingly tasty and retired to an early night. This was my first camping experience since hanabata days! Thanks to Thomas Engle for letting me borrow his tent. We lucked out as it only rained briefly around midnight. That luck would not hold.

Good morning!

David and Thessa saw this sunrise. Ours was somewhat filtered by trees. Photo by David Concepcion.

What’s for breakfast?

We broke down our tents in the morning and ate leftover MREs. Took stock of our water supply. Almost gone.

Reunited and it feels so good

David and Thessa soon joined us on the top. Our first group photo of the hike left to right: Jose, David, Thessa, myself and Ryan.

Back to hiking

We resumed our hike by plunging back into the overgrowth. It was crazy. Jose and Ryan took the lead and cleared the path with a machete. Photo by David Concepcion.

Still a long way from the top

Several more hours of bushwhacking were still in store for us. Couldn’t get any worse. Then the rain started. Photo by David Concepcion.

Are we tired yet?

Some of us ran out of water. In the middle of pouring rain. Irony.

Panoramic view

Click here for the larger image. Photo by David Concepcion.

Almost there

As we neared the top of the ridge, the overgrowth became more manageable.

Waimalu Meadows

The mythical meadows were completely socked in. We were just glad to be off the ridge, we could live without the views. Sitting on spongy ground never felt so good. Photo by David Concepcion.

Watering hole

Jose went poking around and found us a water hole. He even had a LifeStraw, which is a portable water filter. However, it does not filter out against leptospirosis, which is common in most streams. We did not see signs of pigs or goats and besides we were pretty thirsty.

Suck! Suck! Suck!

This is what happens when you run out of water. You have to suck it out of a hole in the ground. Others drank from a bottle. Photo by Ryan Meyer.

Lunch break

Happiest group photo of the hike. Photo by Thessa Bugay.

Time to leave

We had decided against going down the grueling and endless Waimalu Middle Ridge. Instead we opted to take the longer but easier Waimano Trail back down.

Headed down

Going down the Ko’olau Summit Ridge Trail. Narrow at times but the windward winds kept us steady on the ridge.

Water!

Jose noticed water running off a branch. Ryan immediately assumed the horizontal drinking position.

Waimano summit

Group photo at the end of the Waimano Trail, which was actually the beginning for us. Notice the spectacular scenery behind us.

Waimano trail

We still had seven miles to walk back down to civilization. Ripe and abundant strawberry guava, guava and lillikoi lined the trail going down. We even had some mountain apples further down the stream. Tasty trail snacks.

Can I have some privacy please?

When we came to the first major stream crossing, Ryan collected some awapuhi and took a bath in the once pristine waters. Jose soon followed. The rest of decided to wallow in our filth and grime.

Repairs needed

Here we were at the picnic bench with no picnic. Part of the roof was flapping in the wind. Must sound spooky at night.

Body shampoo?

Jose collected some awapuhi or shampoo ginger plants on the trail, to be used in the privacy of his home.

Choices

Thessa pausing besides one of the water tunnels that once made up the irrigation system. No exploring today.

Bench with a view

The scenic point afforded great views of the Waianae Mountains.

End of the tunnel

The trail soon lead us back to civilization. A chain link fence!

Follow the chain link fence

We followed the chain link fence until it dumped us on Waimano Home Road.

Utter exhaustion

Drop dead tired. We dropped our packs and plopped down on solid concrete. It felt so good to take a load off our feet. Once in Jose’s car, we stopped at the nearest McDonald’s to gulp down carbonated sugar water. Then it was off to Outback for our post hike meal. My eye was bigger than my shrunken stomach because I could not polish off my herb encrusted wood fired slab of meat. Leftovers. Photo by Thessa Bugay.

GPS Tracks

The punishing hike lasted 9.57 miles spanning over two days. The heavy packs made the hike harder than it should have been and the overgrowth didn’t help matters. The first and seventh tooth were the hardest ones and they sandwhiched a heavily overgrown ridge. The section beyond the final tooth was just as overgrown, it petered out as the ridge approached the Ko’olau range. It was quite the weekend with an amazing group!