Akira, Ferlino and myself flew over to the Big Island to meet up with Roger and let gravity do all the work this time.

Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport

We flew into the open air airport that has no jetways and were picked up by Roger, our gracious host from the last trip here.

Mauna Kea

After meeting up with Matt and acclimatizing for about an hour, we drove to the top of the white mountain. Temperature registered in the low 50s which made it quite comfortable and a marked departure from our last visit when it was dipping into the 30s and 40s. A religious ceremony was underway at the true summit, so we just admired it from afar.

Mauna Kea

Group photo with the background of some of the 13 summit observatories which are funded and staffed by 11 different countries.

Humu’ula Trail

Matt decided to partially join us as we went down the Mauna Kea Trail.

Humu’ula Trail

We soon crossed paths with other hikers that were coming up from the visitor center.

Lake Waiau

Group photo at the highest lake in the Pacific Basin at an elevation of 13,020′.

Lake Waiau

Leaving the only lake on the island and Matt also returned to his electric truck. Many thanks again to Matt for the quiet ride to the top.

Humu’ula Trail

Practicing my rudimentary Japanese strictly for entertainment purposes and finding out that higher elevation has no direct bearing on soda carbonation. Shaken not stirred.

Humu’ula Trail

When Ferlino is on the trail, it’s always Flag Day.

Humu’ula Trail

A superhero with radioactive spider infused powers is not immune to high altitude sickness as evidenced by the individual in question getting confused as to why his costume was inside out.

Humu’ula Trail

How often can you take a picture with Spider-Man on the world’s tallest mountain? I thought he was taller?

Humu’ula Trail

This couple didn’t look too impressed. I guess when you’ve seen one Spider-Man, you’ve seem ‘em all.

Humu’ula Trail

Did you get my picture? Send it to me!

Humu’ula Trail

360 degree view of us going down the volcanic landscape with the massive Mauna Loa in the background.

Humu’ula Trail

We came across this one group that recognized their limitations and decided to turn around. They chose wisely.

Humu’ula Trail

Kicking up clouds of lava dust as we went down the trail.

Humu’ula Trail

Spider-Man in his native habitat.

Humu’ula Trail

Getting close to the road.

Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station

Roger dropping off our signed hiking paper to let the Rangers know that we were back safe and sound at 9,200′ elevation.

Quinn’s Almost By The Sea

No waiting this time around, we just walked right in. I guess it helps to have a superhero eating with you.

Big Island Grown

Somebody wanted to sample what was once the island’s biggest cash crop before we left the Big Island. It wasn’t the super hero pictured here.

GPS Tracks

Our dusty descent from the tallest mountain in the world covered 5.51 miles with great company. Thanks again to Matt and Roger for the rides.

Photos taken by Akira Suzuki, Ferlino Carinio, Roger Schiffman, and yours truly. Not necessarily in order.

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers. One should also always let somebody know of your hiking plans in case something doesn’t go as planned, better safe than sorry.

We left Captain Cook before the coqui frogs woke up or did they wake us up?

Mauna Kea Access Road

It took us under two hours to drive up to the Visitor Information Center located at 9,200′ elevation as we saw the sunrise burning through the thick colored clouds.

VIS

We met Matt who had zoomed-zoomed in his rented Mustang from Hilo to Mauna a Wakea (White Mountain) where we spent the next hour acclimating to the higher altitude.

Ranger Checkpoint

Nobody under 13? Not talking about behavior. The winds are high 30s, 40s. It’s minus. Freezing. You plan to drive up there? Not with less than half a tank of gas. This car is not going up to the summit.

Ranger Checkpoint

Roger went back down the mountain to fill up the tank. The rest of us got our briefing on what to expect and what to do. How much water do you have? Two liters. Not enough.

Mauna Kea Access Road

Properly acclimated and briefed, we pushed off on the road to start our hike.

Mauna Kea Access Road

Traffic control. R17 is this way.

Humu’ula Trail

Leaving the road that was built in 1964 for the dirt trail.

Humu’ula Trail

This is the way. In 1823, Joseph Goodrich, an American missionary, was the first documented foreigner to make the climb to the summit from the base.

Humu’ula Trail

One of multiple cinder cones in the background.

Humu’ula Trail

Matt going off trail to take photos of endemic or invasive species?

Humu’ula Trail

Fad or fact? Aida breathing in canned oxygen. Many pundits are of the opinion that this is purely a placebo effect and that it has nothing to do with physiology. The driving fact is that barometric pressure is lower at higher altitudes, which helps to drive oxygen to your lungs. Your body simply is not delivering enough oxygen as it would at sea level.

Humu’ula Trail

Panoramic view of Mauna Loa and Hualalai from 10,240′ elevation, two of the six active volcanoes in the island chain. We were standing on the third one.

Humu’ula Trail

Going up the soft volcanic dirt trail seemed to require more energy on our part, as we had to dig our heels in to go up the steep section.

Humu’ula Trail

With each passing step, the breathing became harder and the exertion just as much.

Humu’ula Trail

Meeting of the addled minds.

Humu’ula Trail

Hit the road Jack and don’t you come back
No more, no more, no more, no more

Humu’ula Trail

Pushing to the cinder cone ahead of us where the steepness was supposed to slack off.

Humu’ula Trail

Turn around point at roughly 10,443′ elevation. All three decided to throw in the towel due to a sore ankle, headache and tiredness.

Mauna Kea

Going down the mountain.

Mauna Kea

Salvation in the form of a white Subaru Ascent driven by Roger, lay waiting for them at the bottom of the road.

Humu’ula Trail

Staying hydrated on the volcano at a little over 11,100′. Better than canned oxygen.

Humu’ula Trail

Matt coming up the trail with the largest active volcano on Earth behind him. Mauna Loa is so massive that the volcano’s weight depresses the Earth’s crust by about five miles. Let that sink in.

Humu’ula Trail

I soon crossed paths with three young kids coming down the mountain. How close are we? You don’t want to know. I do want to know. You’re not even close. Not even 1/3 of the way. How was the summit? We didn’t make the summit. Okay then.

Humu’ula Trail

Dust in the wind.

Humu’ula Trail

Roger soon joined us as he had hiked down from the top of the trail after leaving the girls in the car to rest.

Humu’ula Trail

Plodding above the clouds.

Humu’ula Trail

Hiking through the volcanic landscape at a little over 12,000′ elevation.

Humu’ula Trail

When eating prime rib and beef jerky just isn’t enough.

Humu’ula Trail

Pushing our way to the saddle. One step at a time. Literally.

Lake Waiau

Looking at the alpine lake that sits at 13,020′ elevation, the highest lake in the Pacific Basin. It has been postulated that ancient Hawaiians used this lake as a water source when establishing nearby adze quarries in this remote location. The body of water was once considered as a water source for the Kohala Railroad, stocked with trout which died off and suggested as a tropical ice skating rink. How it even exists in a landscape of porous lava rock is a mystery unto itself. Theories that have been thrown out include a permafrost layer and a bottom sediment of fine volcanic ash mixed with organic matter that impedes drainage. The lake is also considered sacred in Hawaiian tradition and possibly named after one of the four snow goddesses in Hawaiian mythology. The name itself means swirling waters but the waters are often but that.

Humu’ula Trail

Home stretch.

Humu’ula Trail

Approaching the summit observatories, the high elevation which lends itself to dark skies and the absence of atmospheric and light pollution makes for favorable observation conditions for astronomical objects. There has been pushback from the local community over any new telescopes as seen by the TMT controversy that started back in 2015 and whose future is now questionable.

Humu’ula Trail

Making our way to the creature comforts of our car which offered a respite from the freezing 30s temperature as we joined the ranks of the estimated 5,000-6,000 people that make the trek to the summit every year. We took a quick break and the First Shirt persuaded me that we had to finish at the true summit. Okay then.

Humu’ula Trail

Tapping out. Back to the pace car.

Humu’ula Trail

Wasting what little energy I had left. Altitude Mountain Sickness is real. Or some kind of sickness.

Humu’ula Trail

Taking a break. Need your windshield washed?

Humu’ula Trail

Meanwhile, somebody was minding their own business and keeping his distance.

Humu’ula Trail

Have a drink on me.

Humu’ula Trail

No can handle?

Humu’ula Trail

Cue the Rocky music. 33 RPM.

Humu’ula Trail

Are we there yet?

Humu’ula Trail

Not quite. We were at roughly 13,741′. Almost there.

Humu’ula Trail

Crossing the open saddle as we were buffeted by high winds of 50 mph plus. Crazy in somebody’s words. The wind chill was freezing to say the least. My exposed face felt like an ice cube.

Humu’ula Trail

Ascending the summit with remnants of a snow sheet on the side. Mauna Kea is the only Hawaiian volcano that shows evidence of prior glaciers that once existed from the summit down to about 10,500′ of elevation.

Mauna a Wakea Summit

Approaching the altar at the top of the mountain. Paid our respects and no tik-tok dances per the kanaka ranger.

Mauna a Wakea Summit

Roger and myself huddled at the base of the altar from the freezing winds at the 13,796′ summit.

All pau

Somebody finally got their solo shot. We drove back down the road to the Ranger Checkpoint where Roger was pronounced an excellent driver as he didn’t overheat the brakes coming down. Picked up Mari from the airport and drove to find our post hike meal. Quinn’s was an hour wait. So off we went to Outback Steakhouse as today was their last day as corporate was pulling the plug on all of the Australian themed restaurants. Even longer wait with nobody taking names. So it was back to Quinn’s. Good dinner with fun company.

GPS Tracks

Our hike to the highest peak in Hawaii covered 6.8 miles through volcanic landscape, high altitudes, gusting winds and freezing temperatures tempered with good company.

Photos taken by Aida Gordon, Aileen Agustin, Matt Vidaurri, Roger Schiffman, Tessa Bugay, and yours truly. Not necessarily in order.

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers. One should also always let somebody know of your hiking plans in case something doesn’t go as planned, better safe than sorry.

We had lofty intentions on flying to the Big Island but instead came away being well grounded with good intentions and fun times. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

HA 132

I had overslept and had to catch a later flight to join Aida, Lilyn, Narissa and Quan in the old sugar town of Hilo. We had breakfast at the highly recommended Café 100 and ate our food in the back of our truck.

Mauna Kea Access Road

Stopping at the reminders of the TMT protests that had shut down the mountain a few years back. Photo by Quan Haberstroh.

Mauna Kea Visitor Center

Waiting for the bathrooms to get cleaned at 9,200′ elevation. There is now a Park Ranger checkpoint that will only allow 4×4 vehicles to continue to the summit. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Mauna Kea Access Road

Looking to see how far we had gained in elevation as we struggled to stay in the zipper lane going up without getting run off the road by a non-observant heavy machine operator.

Mauna Kea Access Road

Testing out my high altitude hurdling abilities. Photo by Quan Haberstroh.

Mauna Kea Observatories

Closer. Closer. Closer. Photos by Grant Matsushige.

Mauna Kea Observatories

Quan with our eye in the sky cameraman.

Mauna Kea Observatories

Enjoying the views from the tallest mountain on Earth, if measured from base to peak, it tops out at over 33,500′. Or one can settle for the more commonly accepted elevation of 13,803′. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Lake Waiau Trail

Let’s take our gender group photo! Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Lake Waiau Trail

Setting foot on the volcanic terrain that was to be a small test to see how the group would fare at high elevation.

Lake Waiau Trail

Leaving the 13 observatories behind us. We’ll be back. Photo by Aida Gordon.

Lake Waiau Trail

Aida above the clouds. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Lake Waiau Trail

Looking down at the Humu’ula Trail as it winds its way through the cinder cone dotted landscape. Photo by Quan Haberstroh.

Lake Waiau Trail

Descending down to one of the highest lakes in the country. Photo by Aida Gordon.

Lake Waiau Trail

The heart shaped lake is located inside the Pu’u Waiau cinder cone. Photo by Quan Haberstroh.

Lake Waiau

The clouds briefly drifted across the perched body of water at 13,020′ elevation. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Lake Waiau

The alpine lake surface area fluctuates between 5,000 to 7,000 square meters and is fed by rainfall and snowmelt. The waters are retained by what many think are a combination of permafrost and compressed ash layers.

Lake Waiau Waterfall

A rare sighting of the Thai Yellow Curry Fall. Photo by Quan Haberstroh.

Lake Waiau

Group photo from across the far side of the lake. Can you see the group for the volcanic rocks?

Lake Waiau

Looking across the swirling waters to the other side. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Lake Waiau Trail

Leaving the sacred waters behind us as we hiked back up the hill. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Lake Waiau Trail

Of all the places to park, we blocked the porta potties. We won’t do it again. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

GPS Tracks

Our hike to this sacred body of water covered less than two miles. We drove down the mountain where we picked up Quan’s cousins truck and got Matt at the airport and had dinner at Tetsumen. My first choice was not available. Shades of Greek Marina.

Mauna Loa Road

Somebody needs to get with the program of looking sad as our plan of staging a truck at the Mauna Loa Lookout had been stopped dead in its tracks due to a locked gate. Plans B, C and D were being tossed around for consideration. Matt was still hedging on Plan A.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Enjoying the open sauna fed by bills and coins. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Kilauea Millitary Camp

Checking into Cabin #29 which was going to be the future home of my GoPro, played Jan Ken Po to determine who would get the couch or the beds and Narissa gave Matt advice as to what hole she wanted her little friend in.

Crater Rim Trail

We went for a late night stroll hoping to catch some lava fireworks and caught red tinted steam instead.

Crater Rim Trail

The group peering into Kilauea Caldera. Photo by Lilyn Avendano.

Crater Rim Trail

Keeping warm over one of numerous steam cracks in the ground.

Crater Rim Trail

Matt checking out another steam vent further down the trail.

Crater Rim Trail

Taking an impromptu astronomy class.

All pau

To all a good night and don’t let the coqui frogs bite. Photo by Matt Vidaurri.

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers.

Pop trivia question. What is the highest mountain in the world? If you answered Mount Everest, try again. It’s Mauna Kea located on the Big Island in the Hawaiian Island chain. If you measure Mauna Kea from the bottom of the ocean, it rises a staggering 33,500 feet which towers over Mount Everest’s 29,029 feet. Yes, only 13,796 feet of the volcano protrudes from the Pacific Ocean; but it still holds the title. We flew into Hilo and piled into my father’s friends 4×4 which would take us to the top. We went over Saddle Road, once notorious for it’s bad conditions, now suprisingly smooth and straight in most places.

Onizuka Visitor Center

We got to the Onizuka Visitor Center which is located on the slopes at an elevation of 9,199 feet. After about 30 minutes of getting acclimatized to the high altitude, we set out for the summit.

Mauna Loa

Looking back at Mauna Loa, which is the world’s largest shield volcano and tops out at 13,679 feet. One day, I plan on hiking the historic Ainapo Trail to the summit of Mokuaweoweo.

Bringing home Xmas

We passed local residents shoveling snow into the back of their pickups to take home for the keiki ( children ) to play in, a holiday Hawaiian treat.

Mauna Kea Observatories

As we drove up the road, some of the observatories popped into sight. I believe they are from left to right; Maxwell, Gemini, Subaru and the Keck Observatories.

Submillimeter Arrays

We saw several snowboarders trudging up the snow covered slopes in search of that perfect “pineapple snow.” I believe there are several areas to ski/snowboard with colorful names such as Poi Bowl, Pele’s Parlor, Warrior’s Run, Alii Run and the King Kamehameha Run.

Panoramic view from the top

Click here to see the larger image taken from the Canada-France-Hawaii Telescope.

Snowball fight?

The snow at the top of Mauna Kea was not fine like Matsumoto’s Shave Ice, but rather coarse and granular ice. The only things I forgot to do when I was up there was make a snowman and snow angel.