We paid a visit to the land of the rising sun, not to predictably hike Fuji-san but rather do a couple of exploratory activities since we had only so many days to spend.

Iwashima

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan – May 27, 2025

It took us several connecting trains and roughly three hours to travel from Shinjuku to the town of Higashiagatsuma in Gunma Prefecture. There was nobody at the “station” to take our tickets, so we just dropped it in the “honor” box.

Higashiagatsuma

We had to “wake” up the barber at Akagi Barber Shop to find out where the bus stop was. Then we got slightly worried when the bus didn’t show up as listed on the schedule. In the land of punctuality. It showed up 10-15 minutes later as we were thinking of trying to catch a taxi or just to walk the distance to make our reservation time of 1300.

Higashiagatsuma

Getting off the “bus” that was adorned with colorful cartoon characters. If you didn’t know any better, one would think Japan is just one big cartoon country.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

We checked in along with others and picked our colorful hard hats. Safety first. Then we walked a short distance to the departing train platform.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

Pedaling our way on the re-purposed former JR East Agatsuma Line railway tracks that was shut down due to construction of the nearby Yamba Dam.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

Passing through one of several tunnels underneath the mountain.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

This one had Christmas lights illuminating the tunnel.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

Approaching the reason this activity exists in the first place.

Yamba Dam

This was the turn around spot for our rail bike cars. Walking around the concrete gravity dam that became operational in 2019, which rises to a height of 116 meters and can store up to 108 million cubic meters of water. It also provides enough power for nearly 12,000 homes. I was unable to fulfill a friends request to climb the “Stairway to Heaven” on the side of the dam. My Japanese may be rusty, but I think entrance is prohibited.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

The workers turned the rail bikes around so that we didn’t have to pedal backwards to the train platform.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

Passing through Tarusawa Tunnel, once known as the shortest in the country.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

Friendly construction worker waving at us as we rode by on the tracks, making the “gattan” noise as the rail bike contacted the tracks.

Agatsumakyo Gorge Rail Bike Agattan

We were soon back at the platform after spending roughly one hour round trip on the tracks and a brief exploration of the dam that cost us 5,000 yen for the experience. This ride would be best experienced in the fall when the colors change for eye candy consumption.

Higashiagatsuma

The bus was not scheduled to come for another two hours and no taxi cabs would come to collect passengers this far out. I guess we are walking back.

Higashiagatsuma

Back at the bus stop. For the land of convenience machines, we didn’t see not one walking back. We must really be in the country country. Since we had over an hour to wait, we walked to the nearby hardware store where we bought some snacks and drinks.

Iwashima

Killing time at the deserted train station before our departure time.

Higashiagatsuma

Making myself comfortable. It’s going to be a long train ride back. We had dinner at Coco’s where I had my usual seafood spaghetti served by a robot.

Kawaguchiko Station

Aokigahara – May 29, 2025

It took us only two hours this time to reach the train station in the town of Fujikawaguchiko from Shinjuku. Our local guide, Omori Tadasuke, picked us up at the station along with an Australian couple that were honeymooning in Japan.

Fujikawaguchiko

After picking us up, Tada took us to a nearby school parking lot where we were made to don blue coveralls and matching blue helmets. On the ride to the forest, we saw a lot of tourists taking pictures in front of this Lawson convenience store. I was thinking what’s so special about this Lawson? Was this the first Lawson store to open in Japan? Incidentally, that was in 1975 and it was then called Daiei Lawson. In 1979, the name was changed to Lawson Japan. No, this was not the first Lawson store to open in Japan, which was in Osaka. Not the brightest bulb. It would turn on later.

Aokigahara

We soon parked somewhere on the side of the road where Tada explained the lay of the land.

Aokigahara

Following the leader into the forest which has captured the fancy of some in the West due to its reputation as the most popular suicide spot in Japan. In 2003, 105 bodies were found in the forest. The numbers have been declining and authorities have stopped posting numbers to discourage associating the forest with suicide.

Aokigahara

The forest is also known as Sea of Trees which sits on the northwestern flank of Mount Fuji.

Aokigahara

Standing next to a marker that reads National Monuments of Japan and was designated as such in 1929.

Aokigahara

Making our way down the trail that was somewhat slippery due to the moisture and moss on the rocks.

Aokigahara

Passing the spot where the temperature drops a noticeable ten degrees cooler than topside. Instant air conditioning.

Aokigahara

Group photo in the hole with the five of us.

Aokigahara

Climbing down a ladder that was built over 20 years ago by a friend of Tada’s. No worries.

Aokigahara

Entering the lava tube known as the “Wind Cave.”

Aokigahara

Tada told us that the ice levels had significantly dropped from the time when he and his friends used to explore these caves as kids over twenty years ago. Global warming perhaps? Wooden debris and remains spoke of the times when the Japanese used to keep silk worm eggs down here from the Edo to the Meiji periods. It’s actually a crime to remove any ice from the caves and could be punished by fines or imprisonment.

Aokigahara

The Aussie making his way out of the lava tube.

Aokigahara

Group photo framed by the background opening and forest.

Aokigahara

Climbing our way out of the hole where we left behind the ten degrees of colder temperature.

Aokigahara

Tada blowing his deer mating call to attract any hoofed ruminant ungulates in the area. None answered the call.

Aokigahara

Our guide captured on film, this particular stoat or mountain fairy years ago in this forest. They are carnivores related to the same family of weasels, badgers, otters and wolverines.

Aokigahara

Walking back to our van where we thankfully didn’t encounter any dead people. In 2017, social influencer Logan Paul and friends stumbled upon a person that had committed suicide and uploaded the video where it was met with negative backlash and soon taken down.

Fujikawaguchiko

Our tour which cost us USD113.00 was interesting and informative to the end and Tada then dropped us off back at the station after the conclusion of our short hike. We had time to kill, so we had lunch at a nearby ramen shop and the light bulb finally turned on. Roughly two years ago, social media propelled this particular “konbini” into unwanted international recognition as the “Mount Fuji Lawson.” The clouds had covered the iconic symbol on our way to the ramen shop, but when we were walking back to the station, the clouds cleared up. Clusters of crowds prevented the proper “framing,” so we just snapped a couple shots and took the bus that would take us back to Shinjuku. We ate cheap and tasty sushi standing up for dinner at a spot that is hardly patronized by locals and mostly foreigners.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel – June 1, 2025

Our last activity on the trip took us over an hour train ride from Shinjuku to Kasukabe Station. We then caught a taxi to the place informally known as the “The Underground Tunnel” or “G-Cans.”

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

We had time to kill before the reservation time of 1000, so we snapped a selfie in front of the drainage pump station.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Checked in and got a briefing in Japanese of the background and history of this place. Alternate language options were available for download.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Walked down the short road to enter through the pressure regulating tank entrance.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Stepping foot inside the world’s largest underground flood water diversion facility, this engineering marvel was built from 1993 – 2006 at a cost of roughly 2.6 billion USD.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Looking up to the “skylight.” This is how heavy machinery is lowered to the bottom of the tank …

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

… to clean up the sediment and debris left when swollen rivers dump their overflow into the tunnels and tanks which the system then manages and regulates the excess water and discharges it in to the Edo River.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Staying in the shallow end of “The Temple,” as we take our photo in the pressure adjusting tank with its 59 massive pillars.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Photo with one of five concrete shafts in the background that measure an impressive 230′ in height and 100′ in diameter.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Reflections.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Click counting on our way out of the cavernous facility. This is one place you don’t want to be accidentally left behind.

Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel

Waiting for our taxi to take us to Minami-Sakurai Station and our train back to Shinjuku. Dinner was grilled chicken skewers in the basement of a department store.

Thanks to Scott Dea for his suggestions on the Agattan and Saitama Tunnels. This wrapped up our trip which included walking around the older town of Asakusa, central Tokyo Station, storied Imperial Palace, historical Ueno, shop to you drop Ginza, working class Jujo, cat and godzilla games in Shibuya, Tokyo night lights and seeing family and friends.

Photos taken by Mari Saito and yours truly. Not necessarily in order.

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers. One should also always let somebody know of your hiking plans in case something doesn’t go as planned, better safe than sorry.

Out of the frying pan into the fire as we The COVID-19 germaphobe storm had settled since 2019, so it was time to hop on a plane and go back to the land of the rising sun to climb a mountain to catch the rising sun.

Subashiri Trail

We got up early and left Shinjuku to catch the train to Gotemba where we caught the local bus that dropped us off to the fifth station. This was also the tenth year of Fuji being marked as a world heritage site, fitting as it was 10 years ago that we first stepped foot on this mountain rich in history.

Subashiri Trail

Bought a hiking stick and stuck around for a bit to acclimatize to the higher elevation at 6,561′. Saw a bunch of school kids stretching, somebody joined, from a distance.

Subashiri Trail

Praying for good fortune and weather on our hike.

Subashiri Trail

The initial part of the trail was nicely shaded, but the trees soon thinned out and the boiling sun blasted us while the lady in the back with the reflective umbrellas started looking smarter with every step.

Subashiri Trail

The trail was well marked with white ropes and gun metal chains.

Subashiri Trail

Mari coming up between and a rock and a hard place.

Osada-sanso

Our first hut on the trail and first yakiin (stamp) on my hiking stick. 300 Yen. Inflation.

Subashiri Trail

Standing above the clouds.

Seto-kan

Brief stop at the original sixth station where another group was staying for the night as the higher huts were already taken. Pays to plan ahead.

Subashiri Trail

The summit was strikingly clear as we continued on the trail. A good sign.

Subashiri Trail

Spoke too soon, as the clouds started to roll in.

Subashiri Trail

Climbing up to our next hut. No rest for the weary.

Taiyo-kan

Mari pushing her way up to the seventh station.

Taiyo-kan

Eating our anpan brunch at 10,137′ elevation. The outside temperature was still t-shirt wearable. Climate change is not always a bad thing.

Subashiri Trail

Back on the trail as the clouds rolled across the volcanic landscape.

Subashiri Trail

Going up the trail as another hiker descended down Yoshida trail in the background.

Miharashi-kan

The temperature dropped to 57 degrees as we started to slowly pick up more elevation. Time to add layers.

Subashiri Trail

Constantly playing tag on the trail.

Subashiri Trail

Is that the next hut?

Shimoedoya

Monks on their way down passing the eighth hut which is all technically private property from the eighth hut up. I did not know that.

Subashiri Trail

Looking back at Lake Yamanaka and the surrounding areas.

Yoshida Trail

Mari passing through the traditional Shinto gate which marks the transition from the mundane to sacred ground.

Ue-edoya

Hut sweet hut for the night. What? No private rooms! False advertising.

Ue-edoya

Enjoying our 4:30pm dinner of curry, hamburger, vegetables, rice and a cup of water. What? No hot tea?

Ue-edoya

We stepped out in the now cold air to catch a glimpse of kage Fuji, or the shadow of Fuji as the sun passed over the volcanic mountain.

Ue-edoya

Day 2
We decided to sleep in and leave the early risers at 1am to get stuck in gridlock traffic going up to the summit. It’s almost like Everest, without the bitter and freezing cold. Instead, we woke up at 4am and still caught the breaking mountain sunrise.

Goraiko-kan

Approaching the 8.5 hut with the breaking sun at our back.

Yoshida Trail

There were no water fountains on the mountain, so let’s stick some coins in the torii base and wish for luck with the views.

Kyugome

Passing through the shuttered 9th hut.

Yoshida Trail

Light sprinkles as we approached the top, didn’t put a damper on our spirits.

Mt. Fuji Summit

Standing in front of the Kusushi shrine, which is the terminus for the Yoshida, Subashiri, and Kawaguchiko trails.

Ohachimeguri Trail

The weather was good so we decided to make the pilgrimage around the crater which is marked by eight sacred peaks known as Ken-ga-mine, Hakusan-dake, Kusushi-ga-take, Johju-dake, Asahi-dake, Koma-ga-take, and Mishima-ga-take.

Ohachimeguri Trail

Looking down into the crater of the still active Mount Fuji. The prospect of the volcano erupting has been high on people’s radars due to the Great East Japan Earthquake of March 11, 2011 that resulted in cracks appearing on the roof of the magma reservoir. The last recorded eruption was in 1707, a modern eruption would severely impact the infrastructure of Tokyo and beyond.

Kusushi Shrine

We dropped off postcards at the highest post office in Japan and paid our respects at the highest shrine in Japan, Okumiya shrine which is the terminus for the Fujinomiya trail.

Kusushi Shrine

Getting my last stamp on my hiking stick. 500 Yen please. I guess the price rises with the elevation.

Ohachimeguri Trail

Looking ahead to the cloud wrapped peak known as Ken-ga-mine, which is the highest point on Mount Fuji at 3,776 meters.

Ohachimeguri Trail

Fighting gravity as we went up the slippery slope.

Kengamine Peak

The actual highest peak of Fuji at 12,389′ elevation.

Ohachimeguri Trail

Traversing the Summit Crater Loop that was mostly cloaked in clouds.

Mt. Fuji Summit

Back to where we had started.

Mt. Fuji Summit

Why pay for overpriced miso soup when you can make your own? Exactly.

Mt. Fuji Summit

Last picture of the picturesque landscape below us as we left the summit.

Yoshida Trail

Passing the torii that marked Fujinomiya trail.

Yoshida Trail

Going down the trail of volcanic rock, gravel and loose dirt.

Yoshida Trail

Yielding to tractors going up the trail with supplies for the huts.

Yoshida Trail

How many more switchbacks?

Yoshida Trail

Passing through a series of tunnels designed to make up for the lack of hard hats.

Yoshida Trail

Mari coming down the stone cobbled trail where we soon passed horses waiting for paying passengers and other hikers making their way up.

Yoshida Trail

Passing one of multiple tour groups comprised of domestic and international hikers.

Fuji-Subaru 5th Station

Stand or sit at the finish line.

All pau

I guess being in fifth place is better than last place.

GPS Tracks

Our seventh trek up to Fuji-san covered a little over 11 miles that was blessed for the most part with good weather and spectacular views.

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers. One should also always let somebody know of your hiking plans in case something doesn’t go as planned, better safe than sorry.

We left another record breaking heat spell in Japan that was steaming her cities and embarked on our sixth visit to Mount Fuji. Fools that will never learn from the second time.

Bus depot

It took a train and a bus ride to get us to the 5th station.

Subashiri 5th Station

Wandering around the more undeveloped feel of the station, we should have taken a gander at KoFuji which was 20 minutes away. Missed opportunity that needs to be re-visited.

Trailhead

We donated to the Fuji Conservation Efforts and were rewarded with new shiny pins to mark our altruistic behavior.

Komitakejinja

Walking up to the subordinate shrine of Fuji Sengen, which houses Oyamazumino-kami, ruler of Japanese mountains and Fujisan-Tarobo, a long nosed goblin that watches the trails.

Subashiri Trail

Mari blessed to be hiking on the fourth and final trail up Mount Fuji.

Too bee or not to bee

One of many bees that were busy pollinating the plants and apparently my hiking stick.

Subashiri Trail

Passing the pine tree lined trail.

Subashiri Trail

Breaking free of the tree line as the trail took on more of an exposed nature.

Subashiri Trail

Zig zagging our way up through the switchbacks.

Osada-sanso

Our first stop at the sixth station. Is it Boy’s Day up in the mountains?

Heated inflation

The first stamp on my hiking stick. Price has risen to 300 yen from 200 yen last year.

Subashiri Trail

Some continued while others rested on the trail as it became more congested with fellow hikers.

Subashiri Trail

Clouds starting to drift in as we gained elevation.

Seto-kan

Quick stop at the original sixth station, another burn on our stick and off we went.

Subashiri Trail

Mari gave me back my hiking stick …

Subashiri Trail

… as she broke out her hiking sticks. Might as well use them if you’re carrying them.

Subashiri Trail

Somebody was looking forward to taking another break at the next hut.

Taiyo-kan

Mari making her way up to the seventh station. No marks, just stickers. 100 yen discount.

Subashiri Trail

Rocks drink sake?

Subashiri Trail

The pitch of the mountain soon took on a steeper slant.

Subashiri Trail

Isolated pockets of green plants pimpled the barren volcanic landscape.

Subashiri Trail

Silhouetted hikers on the cloud soaked trail.

Miharashi-kan

Socked in stop at the seventh station. Higher elevation equaled lower temperatures, which required us to fish out our fleece sweaters from our packs.

Hiking memorial

Tribute to all the fallen hikers that failed to summit the mountain.

Subashiri Trail

Hiking above the clouds.

Subashiri Trail

Following the signs to Yoshida trail.

Edoya

Passing the 8th station.

Yoshida Trail

Leaving the relatively quiet Subashiri trail for the jam packed Yoshida trail.

Yoshida Trail

The clouds constantly changing the landscape.

Yoshida Trail

The crumbly rocks gave way to loose volcanic dirt which made gaining traction uphill that much harder.

Yoshida Trail

Passing through the wooden gate which meant our destination was near.

Munatsuki-edoya

Reservations at the original 8th station? Sorry pal, we are going next door.

Yoshida Trail

Time to finally sit down and relax for the night.

Tomoe-kan

Our hut sweet hut for the night.

Yoshida Trail

Enjoying our solitude that would soon be broken by shoulder to snoring shoulder in the eight person cubicle.

Dinner is served

The Japanese sales pitch was blissfully blocked out by my inability to comprehenend the language so it became background noise as I ate my meal that has not changed from our first visit over seven years ago.

Yoshida Trail

The billowing clouds muted and distracted the sunset.

Yoshida Trail

Enjoying the twinkling city lights as I hurriedly made my way to the chilly community toilets.

Yoshida Trail

Joining the early morning crowds outside.

Yoshida Trail

Catching the breaking sunrise before the rain swept the mountain.

Decisions. Decisions. Decisions.

What with the rain lashing the outside, typhoon warning and a minor headache; the painful decision not to summit and go back down the trail was made for us.

Yoshida Trail

Morning rush hour in the mountain.

Yoshida Trail

The swirling clouds filtered the green landscape below us.

Yoshida Trail

Shuffling through the loose switchbacks.

Yoshida Trail

Enjoying the panoramic landscape of the five lakes of Fuji.

Yoshida Trail

Just follow the signs down.

Yoshida Trail

What happened to the rain? The typhoon? Does Guy Hagi work part time over here?

Yoshida Trail

Sometimes you just have to stop and enjoy the views.

Yoshida Trail

Making our way down to the very crowded toilets. Will hold until the next less crowded one.

Yoshida Trail

We met up with two of our hut mates.

Yoshida Trail

I guess shelter is not needed from falling rocks.

Yoshida Trail

Falling rocks anybody?

Yoshida Trail

Passing through the closed station.

Yoshida Trail

Winding our way down to the sixth station that was preceded by the loudspeaker instructions in multiple languages.

Yoshida Trail

The trail to the bottom of Fuji. Next time.

Yoshida Trail

Cobbling our way down.

Yoshida Trail

Enjoying the forest bath on our way down.

Yoshida Trail

Where the climbing route meets the walking route.

Yoshida Trail

Water for us?

Yoshida Trail

Goodie bags for the runners.

All pau

Please take our picture.

Post hike meal

Two hot bowls of noodles topped off with a vanilla and sesame ice cream cone.

Ja mata

The clouds descended down from the mountains and enveloped the scenery as we boarded the bus back to Shinjuku.

Post script

Mari filling in the eye of the daruma after another successful hike up Mount Fuji. Was it the right or left eye?

GPS Tracks

Our sixth hike up Japan’s iconic mountain covered a little under seven miles. While we completed all four trails, we did not successfully summit this year due to bad weather. There is always next year!

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers.

We returned to Japan’s iconic symbol after a year’s hiatus due to Mari’s recent development of rheumatoid arthritis which had derailed our annual pilgrimage to Fuji-san. But thanks to medication, physical therapy and sporadic hikes to Makapu’u Lighthouse; Mari was ready to climb Fuji again this year. Monitoring the weather score cards for Fuji before our hike date, they fluctuated daily from A to C to A. Just throw a lava rock and get the same results. Guy Hagi is alive and well in Japan.

5th Station

Japan was experiencing her hottest summer ever when we boarded the hour long Shinkansen bullet train that took us away from sweltering Shinjuku to hot and humid Fuji City, where the ear-piercing racket of the semis aka cicadas aka the sounds of summer as it is more affectionately known, greeted us at the train station. We caught the 90-minute bus ride that brought us to the highest of the 5th stations that make up the Fuji trail system, as there are four different trails to get to the top. A marked contrast from our last visit in 2016, where we started from the lowest 5th station. After acclimating to the mountain air for the recommended 45 minutes by drinking soda and paying 1000 yen apiece to support the Fuji conservation efforts, we made our way to the trailhead.

Trailhead

Pushing off at 11:36am at an elevation of 7,874′. We were already pretty high up on the mountain. One day I would like to do a sea to summit hike to Fuji. Mari said she will pass.

Fujinomiya Trail

Starting at the higher elevation meant we had less miles of volcanic terrain to hike up to the summit.

6th Station

Mari approaching the first of seven huts or stations on this particular trail.

Unkai-so and Hoei-sanso

Two huts for the price of one. Just like a BOGO sale! Well, maybe not quite.

Money pit

Dropping 200 yen or roughly two bucks for one of seven stamps on my hiking stick. Can I get two stamps for the price of one? The mark(s) of a tourist hiker.

Fujinomiya Trail

Leaving the huts and continuing our rocky climb on the third trail in the system.

Volcanic flora

Stopping to admire the colorful Japanese knotweed plant growing at the lower elevations.

First Aid

Mari being niele (nosy) while passing paramedics administering care to a Chinese hiker that hurt her arm and who were still looking for an Australian hiker that fell off the trail.

Fujinomiya Trail

Climbing carefully on the trail to avoid injuring an arm or falling off.

Volcanic flora

Life always finds way to exist in even the most seemingly inhospitable environments.

Goraiko-sanso

Arriving at the 7th station. The old station that is. I like to think of these huts as similar to Starbucks coffee shops; a place to sit, grab free wi-fi and pay for overpriced drinks and snacks.

Got views?

While the swirling clouds robbed the views from us, at least it kept us from overheating on the trail.

New 7th Station

Sign posts to guide and keep track of your hike in terms of distance and estimated time. Your mileage may vary.

Closed trail

Excuse me, I think the trail is over on this side. I guess there is no such thing as universal signage.

Tonka Toy Truck

This is how supplies, garbage, workers and sick people get on and off the mountain. Hope we don’t fall into any of those categories.

Fujinomiya Trail

Exchanging greetings of konnichiwa ( hello ) on the trail with other hikers coming and going.

Follow the arrows

Workers replacing the ropes on the trail. Constant upkeep. Keep on donating 1,000 yen.

Old 7th Station

Maybe it’s just me, but shouldn’t the old station be before the new station?

Fujinomiya Trail

Hiking above the clouds never gets old.

Fujinomiya Trail

We were hiking at well over 10,000′ and the air was still comfortably warm enough to do without any jackets, just like our last visit in 2015.

8th Station

Every trail has a medical station to assist hikers dealing with the common complaint of altitude sickness. Thanks to canned oxygen and tablets, we were doing fine and continued on the trail.

Fujinomiya Trail

Passing through heavy duty barricades that protects against frequent rockfalls.

Blue Skies

The trail being on the other side of the mountain, is the only one that offers views of the Pacific Ocean as a backdrop. Unfortunately, the only blue we saw today, was that of the sky.

Wishing Pole

We left our low denomination coins and took promising wishes with us.

Fujinomiya Trail

Looking ahead to our hut for the night as we still had plenty of daylight to spare.

Fujinomiya Trail

Mari was pacing herself on the hike. 20 paces. Rest. 30 paces. Rest. Repeat until you get to your destination.

9th Station

We arrived at 4:52pm where the air was calm and the altitude was a little over 11,350′. Just in time for dinner.

Mannenyuki-sanso

Our hut for the night. Reservations for Saito?

Hut Sweet Hut

We checked in and were shown our “room” for the night. $65 on the mountain gets you a sleeping bag, curry dinner and two cups of hot green tea. Nothing more. Nothing less. Outside temperature was a comfortable 59 degree Fahrenheit. The winds picked up slightly later on, but not enough to give one a chill.

Sunset

Enjoying the pinkish sunset views, until the air temperature finally dropped and forced us back into the hut and our musty sleeping bags.

Sunrise

We decided to sleep in and miss the traditional sunrise hike at 2am to the summit and just catch the sunrise from the hut in the morning. One slight problem with that, as we found the sun rises on the other side of the mountain. Mari was content to sit outside our hut, due to her pounding headache, so I slippered my way around the bend to catch the rising sun at 4:30am.

Ohayo Gozaimasu

Walking back to the hut in the cool, crisp mountain air. Ohayo Gozaimasu (Good Morning).

Torii

Mari still had her pounding headache due to the thin air and was thinking of ditching the summit hike and just going back down. Luckily Ibuprofen and persistence paid off, so we were back on the trail at 5:58am.

Fujinomiya Trail

Descending hikers are supposed to yield to the ascending hikers, but I don’t think everybody got the memo.

Blue Skies

The skies were strikingly blue this morning as we dealt with the traffic jam on the trail. Sunrise hikers have to deal with worse, borderline gridlock traffic on the trail.

Munatsuki-sanso

Last hut on the trail before the summit.

Fujinomiya Trail

The air was quite thin at this point, so Mari’s pleading to get down didn’t travel well to my ears.

Harlequin Ladybird

I guess this brightly colored beetle was making her way down from the summit. Konnichiwa.

Fujinomiya Trail

Rock by rock, we made our way up the increasingly steep trail.

Fujinomiya Trail

Mari started saying “maji?” (seriously?) more frequently, as the trail became even steeper as we approached the top.

Fuji Summit

We arrived at the Torii gate at 8:15am, which marks the gateway to the summit of Fuji. Fools five times! Congratulations to Mari for pushing through and making it despite her doubts. Mind over matter.

Cry me a river

The summit weather at 12,388′ elevation was a marked departure from our first visit in 2013, where we experienced a storm pounding the top. The air was comfortably cool and the wind noticeably absent. The perfect (non) storm to climb to the highest point, Kengamine Peak. Unfortunately, the climb had taken the wind out of Mari’s sails, as she had to save her energy for the hike back down.

Fuji crater

Trying not to get too close to the 820′ deep crater that still had snow sitting at the bottom, but a lot less as compared to our last visit in 2014.

Okumiya Shrine

We dropped off postcards at the highest post office in the land and got the final stamp on my hiking stick at the shrine. Mari forgot to add a 10 yen stamp to one of the postcards. Luckily, the postal worker found us and let us know that postage was due.

Fuji Summit

After we had corrected our postage due problem, we started to make our way to the Yoshida trailhead.

Fuji Summit

Giving the maw of the crater a wide berth, as even though the last eruption occurred in 1707, Fuji is still considered an active volcano. Fuji is actually three volcanos in one; Komitake at the bottom, Kofuji in the middle and Fuji at the top. So we can say we hiked three volcanos for the price of one!

Fuji Summit

This section of the trail was quite empty, as we had the clouds to keep us company.

Fuji Summit

Descending down to the cluster of huts where hikers gather to watch the sunrise pop up, eat, rest, socialize, and use the bathrooms. Not necessarily in that order.

Breakfast of Champions

Thanks to the excellent weather we were enjoying; we decided to sit outside, soak in the views and have hot miso soup for breakfast.

Yoshida Trail

We left the summit at 9:50am going down the cloud soaked Yoshida trail.

Yoshida Trail

Making our way down the countless switchbacks.

Thumbs down

I take it that hitchhiking is not big in Japan.

Global Warming

Not enough to make a snowman, just enough for a couple shave ices.

Yoshida Trail

The rolling clouds seemed to be slowly chasing us down the mountain.

Morning call

A small bird, called awahibari, darted through the blue sky and alighted on a rock, chirped and flew off.

Yoshida Trail

Leaving behind the cluster of huts as we hit another set of switch backs going down.

Yoshida Trail

Intermittent signage and maps on the trail keeps one on track.

Bathroom break

Most hikers took this opportunity to “lighten the load.”

Yoshida Trail

Puffs of volcanic dust followed the steady stream of hikers going down the switch backs. Just like the Pigpen character in Peanuts.

Bi-lingual

Warning signs to use the shelter does not seem to work in the native and foreign tongue.

Walk or ride?

I told Mari that she could take the horse ride back down the trail and take a load off her sore feet, but like a trooper, she said she would walk it out the whole way.

Flora

Stopping and smelling the pink flowers on the trail.

Field trip

Yielding to some pint sized hikers. They sure start them young in Japan.

Yoshida Trail

Mari pining to go back and enjoy Fuji for another day.

Yoshida Trail

The horse ride going back down was getting cheaper and smaller.

Yoshida Trail

So many arrows pointing too so many trails. Which one to follow? Just go straight.

Yoshida Trail

The long and boring walk back to the 5th station. Are those horses still available?

5th Station

We finished our hike at 1:30pm as we jostled and joined the crushing mass of humanity at the popular Kawaguchiko 5th station.

Post-hike meal

After securing our bus ride back to Shinjuku; we ate Japanese spaghetti, pork bowl and lingoberry ice cream to replenish our caloric deficit. Pass on the spaghetti. Keep the Coca-Cola flowing.

All pau

Our last photo with Mount Fuji in the background before the rolling clouds blotted her out. We soon boarded the two hour bus ride back to our hotel, showered and had some cheap and tasty ramen for dinner.

GPS Tracks

We were blessed with excellent weather, albeit cloudy views, on our two day hike that covered 8.2 miles hiking the world’s most climbed mountain. Hats off again to Mari for completing the entire hike.

Postscript

Mari filling in the other eye on the Daruma, as the first eye was her wish to be able to summit Fuji-san again. Time to get another Daruma for next years trail. A little background on the Daruma doll. They are seen as a symbol of perseverance and good luck. When purchased, both eyes are blank white. The user will set a goal and paint in one of the eyes. Once the goal has been completed, the other eye is filled in.

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers.

Looking to escape the oven heat of Tokyo and get away to the mountains for a respite, I found myself on a train heading to a town noted for pure, clean water. The steripen can stay home.

Mitsutoge Eki

Pretending to read the map.

Nishikatsura

Leaving the station, I was treated to promising views of the iconic Mount Fuji from the road.

Green Mile

Following a green painted line masquerading as a sidewalk that kept me on track.

Uruchimai

Pockets of rice fields dotted the neighborhood.

Green Centre

I’m detecting a color coordinated pattern.

Trail map

Now if I had paid attention and retained some meager language fragments from school, I could be somewhat reading this map, instead of just taking a picture of it.

Shrine

The first and not the last one I will see on the trail.

Breakfast of Champions

Scarfing down a shoyu flavored hard boiled egg and washing it down with a cold Coke. Life doesn’t get any better than this on the trail.

Trailhead

Leaving the paved road behind.

Daruma-ishi

So where do you paint the eye?

Trail

Going up the log lined trail.

Rest stop

One of many benches sprinkled throughout the trail. Surprised there are no massage chairs as well.

Mountain amphibian

Frog or toad?

Trail

My last view of Mount Fuji from the trail.

Trail

I can read. English.

Trail

Goin up the heavily rooted and stepped trail.

88 & counting

Some stone Buddhas still had their red aprons and others still had their heads.

Landslide

Stakes and ropes to keep one from falling off the ledge.

Trail

Bridge crossing coming up.

Trail

Flip or flop.

Rock climbing area

Approaching the spot where Japanese alpine climbers practice and perfect their skills.

Rock climbing area

I heard there are roughly 70 routes to choose from, ranging from 5.4 to 5.9 grades.

Trail

Picking up my pace in case an errant rock decided to come my way.

Mountain Hut

Never fails. Vending machines dispensing chilled beverages to those with the yen for them. I’m not complaining.

Mountain Hut

Panoramic view. Looking for Mount Fuji.

Kaiun-yama

Still looking for Mount Fuji at the 1,785 meters summit.

NHK broadcast

Same view that Japanese viewers get to see on New Year’s Eve. Well, they actually get to see Mount Fuji.

Benjo

You don’t even have to poop or piss in the woods up here.

Mountain Dog

Who let the dog out? Not this poor pooch.

Exit

Time to leave the mountain tops.

Trail

So many signs. Which one to follow?

Trail

Walking through open fields. I think it’s some sort of nature preserve. Half expected wild life to show up.

Trail

Back in the tree lined ridge.

Trail

Horizontally leaning tree to give balance to all the vertically standing trees.

Tenjo-zan

Going down the tree shaded trail. Crisp and cool in the mountains.

Trail

In a rut. Hiking rut.

Trail

Passing a makeshift dwelling. Didn’t stop to see if it was occupied.

Bear

I can’t read Japanese well, but I can read a picture. Picking up the pace.

Mount Tenjo

Second shrine of the day.

Kachi Kachi Ropeway Station

My trail of solitude was interrupted by the crushing mass of humanity at the station.

Kachi Kachi Ropeway Station

Most of the people milling at the station had used the ropeway to come up and go back. Three minutes versus thirty minutes. I’ll take the latter.

Scenic Point

I can’t see Mount Fuji for the clouds.

The Farmer and the Badger

Statues depicting the story of the rabbit setting fire to the heavy load of kindling on the tanuki’s back. Kachi-Kachi Yama.

Rabbit Toss

Try your luck and don’t forget to deposit a donation. Lady?

Trail

Making my way down the bench and tree lined trail.

Lake Kawaguchi

Looking down at the second largest of the Fuji Five Lakes.

Trail

Going down the trail populated with shrubs of ornamental hydrangea flower heads.

Temizuya

Purifying minds and bodies.

Shrine

The last shrine on the trail.

Junction

Back on the paved road.

Kawaguchiko Eki

Finishing my hike off with what else? Another ice cold Coke.

All pau

Hmmm, which colorful character themed trains shall I take to Shinjuku?

GPS Tracks

The 16.9 km hike winded through forested areas, summits with views (but not of Fuji) and tree lined ridges. Not a bad way to spend the day. Post hike meal at Standing Sushi Bar. Cheap, fresh and tasty sushi. It would put Genki Sushi to shame.

Note: I have been made aware the some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers.

Our fourth pilgrimage to the mountain of the rising sun. We arrived in Japan during the sweltering summer. Hot and humid was an understatement. Stick a chopstick in me, I’m done.

Trailhead

Today was Mountain Day in Japan, to provide “opportunities to get familiar with mountains and appreciate blessings from mountains.” With that being said, we packed our bags and left scorching Shinjuku to arrive three hours later in the crisp air of Gotemba New 5th station that used to be the old 2nd station. Must be the new math.

Gotemba Torii

The Gotemba station was a marked contrast to the almost carnival like atmosphere of the more popular Yoshida station where we had started from the previous three years. It barely left a footprint that consists of a small shop, bathrooms, bus stop and an adequate parking lot.

Gotemba Trail

We pushed off just shy of 10am to begin our hike on the Gotemba trail, which has been described as the most physically hardest route amongst the four trails leading to the summit. The starting elevation is at 1,440 meters (4,724′), which is 2,738′ lower than the more popular Yoshida trail. More elevation to climb. More cardio. Huffing and puffing.

Oishi-chaya

Last chance for refreshments and … hiking sticks. The old shop lady was calculating, probably pegged me as a tourist due to my non-native language skills, 1200 yen … (wait, longer stick) 1900 yen… (wait, stamps ) 2400 yen… (wait, flag) … okay, 2900 yen ($29). Domo arigato gozaimasu.

Gotemba Trail

Leaving the conveniences of civilization behind us.

Gotemba Trail

Japanese knotweeds with their red flowers and green leaves offered a colorful contrast against the volcanic gravel.

Mount Futago

Mari passing the twin mountains of Futatsuzuka Uezuka and Futatsuzuka Shitazuka. No detour. Stay on the trail.

Gotemba Trail

The national park covers 474 square miles that includes Mount Fuji, Fuji Five Lakes, Hakone, Izu Peninsula and Izu Islands. No entrance fee. Just a 1,000 yen ($10) donation at the trailhead and you get a shiny button to pin on your backpack.

Gotemba Trail

Clouds rolling down the featureless terrain.

Old 2.5 station

Sitting down at the Jirobo trail marker at an elevation of 1,920 meters (6,300′).

Gotemba Trail

Starting at a lower altitude than from prior years, helped Mari cope with the transition to thinner air.

Gotemba Trail

What’s for lunch? Anpan and Pocari Sweat. Tastes better than it sounds.

Gotemba Trail

Hiking in the clouds. The trail had zero shade. Nature provided shade in the form of rolling clouds.

Gotemba Trail

Trail crew passing us on the way down. Hard hats. Safety first.

Gotemba Trail

On a good day, you can clearly see the summit of Fuji. Cloudy conditions made it less than an ideal day.

Gotemba Trail

Where there are clouds, rain can not be far behind.

6th Station-Goya

Our first hut and it was closed. There are very few huts on this side of the mountain, as compared to the more popular Yoshida trail.

Gotemba Trail

Zig. Zag. Switchback hiking. Zag. Zig.

Gotemba Trail

Hikers were few and far in between on this trail, along with the mountain greetings of “konnichiwa” exchanged between hikers.

Mount Hoei

Mari standing in front of Mt. Hoei, a flank volcano, standing at 2,693 meters. In other words, a pimple on Mt. Fuji.

Gotemba Trail

Mari at the 3,000 meter mark (9,842′).

Hinode-kan

We arrived at the first open hut at 5pm. No bags of rice for sale here.

Waraji-kan

Hey, that flag is bigger than mines.

Yakiin

Every hut has a branding iron specific to them that they will happily impress on your hiking stick. 300 yen ($3) please.

Waraji-kan

High above the clouds. Notice the snowboard-turned-seat in the background.

Sunabashiri-kan

Another hut. Another stamp. Another 300 yen ($3) shelled out.

Sunabashiri-kan

Scenic spot. Once we climbed above the rain clouds and showers, we were blessed with beautiful weather on the mountain.

Gotemba Trail

I hope that’s our hut. This trail was getting the better of me. Lack of sleep was not helping either. I know. Excuses. Excuses.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Reservations for Saito? We got to our hut sweet hut for the night at 6:20pm. Prince Naruhito, future Emperor of Japan, stayed in this hut in 2008.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

All you can eat curry and hot tea. Free bathrooms. Stacked like sardines horizontally and vertically. Stuffed into musty futons. No prince treatment for us. Mountain hut living at its finest.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

We left the relative warmth of our shuttered hut at 4:14am to venture outside to a 48 degree morning to wait for the sunrise.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

The morning glow of the sun breaking through the clouds.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Sunrise at 4:59am. Slightly delayed by cloud cover.

Gotemba Trail

Ringing the bell on our way to the summit at 5:33am.

Gotemba Trail

Nothing like cold mountain air to get your blood flowing in the early morning.

Gotemba Trail

Looking back at the sea of clouds.

Miharashi-kan

Multiple choice. Is this hiker a) passed out from the thin air b) shielding his eyes from the unfiltered sun or c) deeply disappointed to find out that the hut is closed?

Gotemba Trail

Monument to all the fallen hikers that failed to summit. Actually it’s meant to recognize and honor the people that created this rugged trail.

Gotemba Trail

Panoramic view looking down.

Gotemba Trail

The final push to the summit.

Gotemba Trail

We summited Mount Fuji around 7:30am.

Mount Fuji Summit

Standing on the edge of the crater as wind gusts threatened to blow us into the maw of the active volcano. Active what?

Gotemba Trail

Neither snow nor rain nor cold nor high altitude will stay your postcard from being slowly delivered from the highest mountain in the land. Summit temperature was a cool 42 degrees. Not counting wind chill.

Gotemba Trail

We left the summit a little past 8am. No walk around the crater this year. Too cold and tired. Next year.

Gotemba Trail

Hiking back down into the clouds.

Gotemba Trail

All downhill. Back to zigging and zagging.

Gotemba Trail

Making our way back down to our hut to get Mari’s backpack. Some huts will allow you to leave your backpack to lighten your load as you hike to the summit.

Gotemba Trail

Goodbye Fuji-san. We will see you again next year.

Gotemba Trail

Last chance to use the bathroom. All out of 100 yen coins.

Gotemba Trail

Panoramic view of the trail going down.

Gotemba Trail

That’s one way of taking the load off your back. Sledding it down the mountain.

Gotemba Trail

We left the 6th hut and the mind numbing switchbacks for …

Osunabashiri

… the start of the “great sand run.”

Osunabashiri

The trail turned into a bed of thick volcanic ash that goes down for 7 km (4.34 miles).

Osunabashiri

Clouds started to roll up the mountain, blocking the promised panoramic view of the mountains and city below us.

Osunabashiri

It paid to have gaiters or spats to prevent the fine volcanic pebbles from getting into our shoes. I saw several hikers stopped on the sides of the trail emptying out their shoes.

Osunabashiri

While at the hut, we heard that there was an injured hiker on the trail. I met this paramedic who was looking for said hiker. Kept on looking.

Osunabashiri

Running down the trail as my feet sank up to my ankles with each stride going down. It was crazy fun.

Gotemba Trail

Mari making her way down, the hiking sticks came in handy to help brake our sometimes rapid descent.

Gotemba Trail

Still no view as we made our way down, passing hikers going up the mountain.

Gotemba Trail

No stopping at the hut. Don’t want to get trapped into overpriced and unnecessary trinkets again.

All pau

We got back down around 1pm. Our bus back to the train station was at 3:35pm. So much time on our hands. What to do? Filled out a survey. Japanese language only. Here comes the rain again. Fired up my Jetboil and boiled a bowl of beef pho and a cup of hot chocolate. Chatted with a fellow American named John who was from Virginia. Contemplated sharing a taxi to the train station to cut down on the wait time. But in the end, we boarded the bus along with a dozen other smelly hikers to the train station that took us back to Shinjuku.

GPS Tracks

Our fourth and hardest hike up Mount Fuji started off cloudy and rainy and ended up with crisp weather, stunning scenery and another epic sunrise. The hike covered 10.44 miles with an elevation gain slightly over 7,600′. Congrats to Mari for finishing her fourth and hardest hike up Mount Fuji. Post hike meal at Coco’s. I come back every year to this restaurant for their Tomato Seafood Spaghetti. Add hot sauce. Broke da mouth.

We arrived in Japan sandwiched between two typhoons. Wunderbar. We had two days before our third climb up to Mount Fuji. Mari was checking on the constantly changing weather forecast. Clear. Cloudy. Rainy. Clear. Cloudy. Rainy. Guy Hagi is alive and well in Japan. As a precaution, we had even booked another day in case the weather looked bad. In the end, we decided to go for our originally planned day and hoped for the best.

Yoshida 5th station

The two hour bus ride took us from sweltering Shinjuku to the lush forests of the Fuji Hakone National Park as we slowly motored our way up to the 5th station perched at 7,545′ elevation.

Japanese mountain ranges

We got off the bus and enjoyed the cool air and scenic cloud capped mountain views.

Mount Fuji

The mountain. The mountain. The mountain. Crystal clear.

Trailhead

We pushed off at 10:40am, after having spent the suggested 45 minutes getting used to the thin mountain air.

Have horse, will travel

Some people prefer to do their walking with hooves. Clip clop.

Climbing route

Most of the day tourists stopped here or took the lower trail. From here on, it was mostly hikers going to the summit.

Climbing

Time to break out the hiking sticks. Serious hiking ahead.

Falling rock shelter

The mountain silence was interrupted by the blaring multi-lingual PA system which encouraged hikers to use the tunnels to avoid falling rocks.

Follow the signs

It’s pretty hard to get lost on this trail.

6th station

Mari making her way up to the Mt. Fuji Safety Guidance Center; where maps in Japanese, English, Chinese and Korean are available. Pidgin map coming soon.

Walking the wall

Hiking the wall less traveled. Until somebody yelled at me to get off the wall. Thanks Mari.

Switchbacks for days

Back and forth. Zig and Zag.

Inhale deeply

Mari had eaten some dried mango earlier and it did not sit well with her, which made her slightly nauseous. She initially thought it was altitude sickness and would not be able to complete the climb to the top which would have been a huge disappointment for her. After sucking down some canned oxygen, her stomach settled down and it was back to climbing. Big sigh of relief.

Huts ahead

The clouds parted to reveal the beginning of the climbing huts that offered rest, snacks and stamps if you had the yen for it.

7th station

Mari arriving at the first hut, Hana-goya. It was still a cool and comfortable 69 degree Fahrenheit. Nice relief from the sauna that was baking the city down below us.

Rocky trail

Taking a break from the switchbacks.

Hole in the sky

Clouds started to roll up the mountain, blotting out the views.

Hinode-kan

The temperature was unseasonably warm at this altitude. Last year at this same altitude, we had already donned our fleece sweaters. Not this year. Still cool and comfortable.

Tomoe-kan

Hmmm, let’s see. Water for $3. Sunglasses for $4. Beer for $5. Chips for $2. Red Bull for $3. Fish sausage for $1. How much for the vintage hut sign?

Follow the chains

Up, up and away.

Huts in the clouds

Looking down at the huts perched on the side of the volcano.

Kamaiwa-kan

Resting at 9,154′ elevation. Getting higher.

Going up

I preferred climbing up the rocky sections over the numbing switchbacks anyday.

Red Torii Gate

The gate is rebuilt every 60 years. Is it time?

Torii-so

Most of the huts had informational signs to read up on the history of the mountain. Too bad I’m illiterate.

Cloudy skies

Clouds literally rolling down the mountain side.

Climbing up

Going up one rock at a time.

Toyo-kan

Looked like the crew and cast of Extreme Hut Makeover paid this hut a visit. New siding and flooring.

Fuji flowers

Pockets of bright yellow flowers stood out from the barren volcanic landscape.

Silhouttes

Hikers climbing towards the sun.

Blue skies

The sky’s so blue and bright, I gotta wear shades.

Fuji puka

Two holes. One in the head and one in the mountain.

Climbing out of the clouds

All smiles.

Taishi-kan

The weather was still cool and comfortable at the 10,170′ elevation.

Sunny skies

The weather continued to hold strong and promising for us.

Horai-kan

The frequent spacing of the huts provided good excuses to stop and take a breather in the thin air.

Hiking up

Mari still going strong. Second wind.

Above the clouds

Back on the switchbacks. Ugh.

Hakuun-so

Let’s eat something. Not dried mangoes.

Clouds

High above the clouds.

Ganso-muro

Started to get a little chilly at 10,662′. Time to dig out the sweaters and jackets.

Mountain shrine

Mari praying for the good weather to continue.

Almost there

Where are we on the map?

Getting higher

Looking back at Lake Yamanaka, one of five Fuji lakes and the largest. Still got to visit at least one of them.

Hut Sweet Hut

The final push up the stone steps as the bright blue sky beckoned us.

Fujisan Hotel

Hotel or hut? Don’t expect turndown service.

Tomoe-kan

We checked in at our hut at 4:40pm. Just in time for dinner. TV dinner. Temperature was a comfortable 54 degree Fahrenheit at the 11,154′ elevation.

Looking down

Checking out how far we had climbed up the mountain.

Sleeps six

Hut reservations were down due to unfounded fears of a possible eruption. More room for us. We got our own six person compartment all to ourselves. Just like a private room with its own view. The Hawaiian Host macadamia nut chocolates probably didn’t hurt either.

Just in case

I noticed the rows of climbing helmets hanging from the ceiling in case of an eruption. Last recorded eruption was in 1707. There have been talks of a potential eruption due to the recent earthquake back in 2011. Hmmm, what are our helmet sizes?

Hut with a view

Click here for the larger image.

Kage Fuji

Mirror, mirror on the mountain. Mount Fuji cast her impressive shadow on the clouds as the sun set behind us, it was one of the highlights of the climb. Quite the show.

Good night

We went to sleep early watching the twinkling Tokyo city lights.

Ohayo gozaimasu

Nothing like waking up at 1am on top of a freezing cold mountain. Thank goodness for heated toilet seats.

Rush hour

We joined the slow, shuffling line of hikers making their way up the mountain. Let’s keep the line moving folks.

Goraikou-kan

8.5 Station. Where is the other half?

City lights

Hiking up the mountain while the rest of Japan slept.

Mountain gate

Are we there yet?

9th Station

No more stations or huts until we got to the summit.

Dog Lions

We quickly took our picture next to the pair of stone statues that sat perched below the final torii gate before the summit, before we got run over by the hikers behind us.

Looking back

The stream of illuminated hikers making their way up.

Mountain ambassadors

Arrived at the cold and dark summit at 3:20am. The only illumination coming from a pair of vending machines. Refreshing and uplifting!

Not open yet

Scattered, huddled and bundled hikers tried to find any kind of shelter to get out of the wind chill. It was cold. Ice cold.

Morning glow

As we waited for the goraiko or arrival of the sun, I was holding a hot can of cocoa trying to transfer the slowly dissipating heat to my numb hands.

Saiko sunrise

Our 4:38am sunrise. Not a bad view from our 12,389′ perspective.

History

Our three year journey finally paid off. The first year we got a glimmer. The second year we got sunbeams. This year we finally got the whole show.

Mission accomplished

Third time was the charm! The summit was storm and cloud free!

Time to eat

Now it was time to get out of the biting cold wind and slurp down $7 bowls of pork miso soup to warm our bellies. Once you sat down in the huts, it was hard to get back up and go out into the cold.

Windy

The gusting winds were pushing us around something fierce, so we didn’t get to traverse around the crater rim known as ohachi-meguri and her eight peaks. Next year.

High winds

We pushed off at 6:20am from the summit to make our way down the Yoshida trail, as fine volcanic dust washed over us. We needed a shower, but not that kind.

Yoshida trail

Sliding, walking and falling down the volcanic ash covered trail. Not necessarily in that order. We didn’t run across any patches of snow this year. Blame everything on global warming.

Scenic view

Click here for the larger image.

Last shrine

One of the advantages of staying at Tomoe-kan is that you can leave your backpack there and travel lightly to the top. Then as you make your way down, the trail intersects with the hut again and you can pick up your backpack. Well not everybody. Somebody has to be the Sherpa. Guess who?

Share the trail

Miniaturized heavy equipment making their way up. This is how the trails are maintained, supplies are delivered and sick people taken down.

Last nature call

Mari took the last opportunity to use the bathroom before the final push back down. Make sure to donate 200 yen.

Last marker

Thank you Ministry of Environment.

Just water

The horse guys thought they had some customers. Guess again. Just water please.

Go back?

Next year.

5th station in sight

Just a little bit more.

Fuji lily

Splash of color.

All pau

Our third time up Fuji, where we finally got treated to the sunrise that had eluded us twice before. Finishing the sunrise hike was made even more special to Mari, as she had trouble walking eight months earlier and was worried that she would not make it up her favorite mountain this year.

GPS Tracks

Our climb up and down Fuji covered only 8.04 miles roundtrip with an elevation gain of 6,650′, which made the hike seem longer than it should have been. We had two hours to kill before our bus ride back to Shinjuku, so we had our post hike meal of katsu curry and udon noodles. Back for more next year? Yup, as there are at least three other trails to explore that goes up to the summit.

Two fools paid another visit to Mount Fuji to collect our sunrise. Or so we hoped. Last year we had failed to see the sunrise due to a raging storm on top of the mountain. The two hour bus ride from Shinjuku did not look promising as we approached Fuji Hakone National Park as the summit was nowhere to be seen. Fingers crossed.

That will be one dollar

We got off the bus at the Kawaguchiko 5th Station and milled around for about 45 minutes to acclimate ourselves to the 7,545′ elevation. Using the bathrooms on Mount Fuji is not free and the toilets are non-flushing with microbes added to decompose the waste. Get use to that smell.

Can’t see the mountain for the clouds

Not an auspicious start to our hike as our goal was nowhere to be seen.

Horse model

For $3, you too can sit on a horse and get your picture taken. Just like at the State Fair.

Donations gladly accepted

Before Mount Fuji was declared a World Heritage Site last year, it cost nothing to enjoy this iconic symbol of Japan. Now they have a tent set up to ask for ten dollar donations to help with the conservation of Mount Fuji. We gladly donated. A small price to enjoy such beauty.

Here we go again

Deja vu. We pushed off the trail at 10:50am with high hopes as the weather forecast had predicted no rain. They didn’t say anything about the clouds though.

Climbing route

We began our climb towards Fuji-san. Saw a lot of day tourists taking the lower trail.

Play misty for me

The clouds seemed thicker and lower than last year.

Follow the flag

Japanese tour guides often have flags with them so that the group can easily find and follow them. This was no tour guide.

Yamabushi

Greetings of ohayo gozaimasu ( good morning ) rang through the crisp morning air from white garbed monks coming down from their mountain pilgrimage. They were happy. They were finished with the hike.

Easy way down

This guy took the horse ride down. Took a load off his feet and lightened his wallet by $30 too.

Falling rocks

This concrete tunnel was built to protect hikers from falling rocks.

Sixth station

The first station hikers run across is the sixth station, where they are nice enough to pass out hiking maps. I’ll take my maps in English please. Other choices were Japanese, Chinese and Korean. Sorry, none in Hawaiian. Auwe!

That way

The signposts made it quite difficult to get lost.

All smiles

Mari smiling on the trail. Let’s see how long that lasts.

Standing on the berm

Looking down at the hikers coming up the switchbacks.

Lot of switchbacks

Switchbacks make up the bulk of the trails leading to the summit, rarely will you find a straight up trail. While this makes it easier, it also stretches out the time spent on the trail.

Lost and found?

Rows of brightly colored miniature backpacks lined the sides of this switchback.

Huts as far as the eye can see

Huts that offered shelter, snacks and stamps started popping into view.

Two way traffic

The owners coming back to reclaim their backpacks. This trail is usually one way going up. But who’s going to admonish kids going the wrong way? I gave them credit for making it this far.

Seventh station

The seventh station marks the beginning of the roughly dozen huts that dot Fuji’s backside.

Can you spot Spot?

A dog was enjoying an afternoon nap, seemingly unbothered by the passing huffing and puffing of hikers.

Only 3.8km to go

That’s 2.36 miles for metric challenged folks.

Still smiling

Mari developed a slight headache at the beginning and was struggling a bit.

Another hut

Still on the seventh station?

Got snacks?

Every hut hawked shelter, snacks and stamps. Thirsty? Try the Pocari Sweat? Not as bad as it sounds. This year, I didn’t buy a hiking stick and get them stamped at each hut. The novelty had worn off from last year. Besides, the stamp price had gone up from $2 to $3. If you get a stamp from each hut, that would cost you around $60! More money to buy Pocari Sweat.

Back to hiking

If one hikes Mount Fuji outside of the official hiking season of July and August, no huts will be open for business.

Genki desuka?

Mari’s headache wasn’t going away, so she slapped on a nose strip which helped. We saw a couple other hikers wearing the same type of nose strip that probably had headaches as well.

One stick at a time

One step and stick at a time. Slowly but surely we will get to the top.

Follow the arrows

Need medical assistance? Just a stone away.

No reservations required

Most huts require advance reservations. This one had openings.

Snow!

Higher altitudes means snow on the mountains, even in summer.

Getting higher

We were leaving the clouds below us as we climbed higher.

Our first torii

Have we reached the promised land yet? Not by a long shot.

Hiking into the clouds

It’s always surreal to be hiking into clouds.

The finger

Some hikers started yelling “look at the cloud finger!” So I had to turn around and look. Can you see it?

Stay within the chains

A lot of hikers on the trail made for a slow pace. So I veered off the beaten trail sporadically. Not recommended. Safety first.

Smile break

Mari taking one of many breaks to the top. Still smiling.

Eighth station

We finally moved up a number. Thought we were stuck at seven. From the seventh to the eight station, the huts are spaced out every 20 minutes or so. Many opportunities to stop and take a break.

Only 2.7km left

Getting closer or 1.67 miles left to the summit. The air got noticeably thinner and colder. Time to break out the jackets.

Let’s do this!

Ganbatte!

Panoramic view

Click here for the larger image.

Above the clouds

Taking a photo opportunity at one of the rest stops.

Air is getting thinner

Time to break out the oxygen tablets.

Sucking oxygen

Mari inhaling compressed air to combat the effects of the thin mountain air and hoping it would get rid of her headache.

One step at a time

Are we there yet?

Gateway to the clouds

Shashin o totte kudasai or please take our picture.

Fuji shrine

I wish I had paid more attention to a guide that was educating her group about this particular shrine perched on the slopes of Fuji. The group was foreigners comprised of Chinese and Westerners, so she was speaking English. Even more so, I should have paid attention.

1.8km to go!

Little more than a mile left!

Our hut for the night

We reached our hut, Tomoe-kan at an altitude of 11,154′ around 5:30pm. Home sweet home. At least for the night.

Damp and cramped

The musty futons from last year had been replaced by tacky, thin plastic sleeping bags that was permanently damp from the cold mountain air. Usually each “room” is shared by 10 hikers. Communal living at it’s finest. Luckily we only had to share it with four other hikers.

Sales pitch with our meal

Nothing like eating your hamburger steak and curry washed down by hot green tea while being loudly reminded that anpan, postcards and trinkets were available for sale.

What time is it?

We woke up at the ungodly hour of 1am to get ready for the final push to the summit. The only good thing about waking up this early was that Mari’s headache was gone. Going to the outside bathroom in the middle of the freezing mountain night is not fun. Thank goodness for those heated toilet seats!

Getting chilly

While the weather was not stormy like last year, the wind chill kept it freezing cold. Stark reminder that we were on top of a mountain. In the wee hours of the morning.

Traffic jam

Snails pace going up behind other hikers shuffling up the mountain to catch the sunrise. Cruel joke.

We made it!

The lion statues and torii welcomed us again to the summit of Mount Fuji at 12,388′ at 3:20am.

A better picture

And then the clouds cleared. Actually this was taken later in the morning when the crowds had thinned out.

Civilization

Twin beacons of hot and cold beverages tempted us with their neon glow. Vending machines are everywhere in Japan, even on top of Mount Fuji.

Wait for it

As we sat and shivered in the freezing wind, we bought $4 cans of hot cocoa to warm ourselves up outside and inside. Some enterprising hikers had brought their own stove with them and were busy cooking up hot ramen. The sun rises at 4:30am. So we all sat and waited with baited breath. Is that the sun we see? Not again! The mythical Fuji sunrise has eluded us again for the second time. Fools we are! After the major disappointment, we retreated into one of the huts to slurp down their $8 pork miso soup and $9 chewy ramen.

Better than nothing

At 6am, we ventured out into the whipping wind to capture our consolation photo.

Is this volcano active?

Peering into the maw of Fuji’s crater. Most people don’t realize that Fuji is an active volanco, with the last recorded eruption in 1708. One study speculates that the 2011 earthquake has made another eruption more likely.

Crater rim

Going clockwise around the crater rim that is known as ohachi-meguri. There are supposed to be eight peaks ringing the crater rim. Last year, we were unable to hike the rim due to a raging storm.

Neither rain, nor snow, nor sleet …

Passing the post office. Yes. A post office on an active volcano.

Uma no se

Walking up the “horse’s back”, the slippery and steep slope to kengamine or the highest peak on the crater.

Unmanned weather station

Last manned in 2004. Now a fully automated meteorological station that sweeps for incoming typhoons and heavy rain showers.

Highest point in Japan

Standing on kengamine, the highest peak in Japan at 12,402′.

Snowball fight?

The snow was still pretty thick up on the rim. Took about an hour to traverse the entire rim.

Going back down

After the wind had died down somewhat, we went down the Yoshida trail around 8am.

JSDF

Japanese soldiers coming up the mountain. Part of their training in case Mount Fuji gets invaded by the North Koreans.

Scenic point

The views were definitely better at the lower elevations than the summit. Go figure.

Bulldozers have the right of way

This is how supplies, workers and sick hikers get up and down the mountain.

Sharing the anpan

Munching on the best anpan ( sweet bean filled buns ) on the mountain. Well, that’s what the salesman said! It was actually pretty good and Mari’s favorite anpan in Japan.

Final stretch

It’s all down hill. Just don’t fall down again.

Got 3,000 Yen?

The day was drawing to a close and with no customers, this old man closed up shop and rode his horse back to town.

Almost there

We could see the 5th station where we had started from the day before.

All pau

We made it back down the mountain around noon, happy and disappointed that we missed the sunrise again. Third time is the charm? Perhaps. The Japanese have a saying that you would be a fool not to climb Mount Fuji once, but a fool to climb it twice. So what would that make us if we do it a third time? We will be back for our sunrise to find out the answer!

I’ve visited Japan 16 times but had never gotten around to climbing the iconic symbol of Japan – Mount Fuji. 17th time was the charm. Rewind seven month earlier as my wife, Mari, planned everything from the gear rental, hotel and hut reservations and bus rides down to the last detail. Details such as getting canned oxygen (never used) and oxygen tablets to give one an extra boost of oxygen at the higher altitudes (only Mari took these). Just before our trip to Japan, we learned that UNESCO had bestowed World Heritage status on Mount Fuji. Great for Japan. Bad for us – crowds. Getting off the two hour bus ride from Shinjuku, we arrived halfway up Mount Fuji at the Kawaguchiko 5th Station. Crowds of day tourists, students and hikers were milling around. A lot of students and day tourists just go to the 5th station to gawk and say they went to Mount Fuji and get back on their bus. Mount Fuji’s summit was covered in clouds. The weather report had predicted rain for today. Too late to cancel our plans, it was Fuji or bust! I just prayed that the weather reporter was related to Guy Hagi. The air at 7,562 feet did not seem thin to me at all, but it’s recommended to acclimate yourself for an hour before hiking. So we bought a $5 hiking stick, paid 50 cents to use the toilet and looked at the various tourist trinkets until it was time to go.

Ride or walk?

We pushed off from the trailhead at 10:45AM as we joined others making the climb and returning from the summit. Mari walking next to a horse drawn cart, that will take one all the way to the 7th station for a small fee. Climbing season runs from July to August. I was pleasantly surprised to find the trails not as crowded, probably because we were doing it on a weekday. Expect madness and gridlock on weekends and holidays.

Izumigataki junction

The downward slope of the trail led us to Izumigataki junction at 11:08AM and we took the right fork up to the climbing trail.

Walking sticks come in handy

The slope of the trail now started to pitch upward. Notice the trees, they would soon be gone as we got higher.

Mt. Fuji Safety Guidance Center aka 6th Station

We reached the 6th station at 11:37AM and were handed maps, that they have in Japanese, English, Chinese and Korean. At the time, we didn’t even know it was the 6th station. No more trees to be seen.

Switchbacks

Mari coming up the switchbacks which are safely shored up by massive fences to prevent erosion. We saw a string of huts perched on the slope of the mountain as we made our way up.

7th Station – Hana-goya hut

At 12:43PM, we reached the 7th station, first of many huts on the trail. Mari was so happy as we didn’t know we had passed the 6th station earlier at 11:37AM, and now we were at the 7th station!

First stamp – 200 Yen

Shelling out 200 Yen or roughly two bucks for the first of many stamps on my hiking stick. Every hut that we passed sells water, snacks and of course a stamp to put on your stick.

Mari rock climbing

Mari climbing up the rockier part of the trail. Fun, fun, fun!

7th Station – Hinode-kan hut

Reaching another 7th station hut.

7th Station – Tomoe-kan hut

The trail from the 7th station to the 8th station is on very rocky terrain, lot of climbing involved. Luckily, huts are spaced out every 15 minutes or so to take breaks or shelter if needed.

More rock climbing

203 minutes to go. At whose pace? The trail was dotted with informational signs that tell you how much distance and time until the summit.

In the company of Buddhist monks

This section of the trail we shared with a stream of white clad chanting Buddhist monks. One of the monks actually fell in front of me, and another monk and myself helped him back up. Hopefully I will get good karma for my actions. Fat chance.

First Torii

 Reaching the first of multiple torii’s or Shinto gates that marked the trail.

Climbing continues…

More climbing on the rocky trail, only one way to go – up.

Climbing out of the clouds

Mari popping out of the clouds.

8th Station – Taishi-kan hut

After passing multiple 7th station huts, we made it to the first 8th station hut at 2:37PM. Air was getting thinner at 3,100 meters or 10,171 feet.

Taking a break

Every now and then, the cloud cover would give us a peak at the scenery below. The rain started as we approached the top.

8th Station – Hakuun-so hut

Another 8th station hut.

8th Station – Ganso-muro hut

Matthew from New York took our photo at this 8th station that we reached at 4:00PM. He was doing it in regular street clothes, those tough New Yorkers! Matthew had actually started the climb to Mount Fuji at the bottom, so he can actually say he climbed the whole mountain. Whereas, we were only climbing half the mountain. Hey, we got to start from somewhere. I want to hike from the bottom next time, Mari not so much.

Original 8th Station

 We reached the original 8th station at 4:32PM. The temperature dropped to 8 degrees Celsius or 46 degrees Fahrenheit at an altitude of 3,400 meters or 11,155 feet.

Home for the night – Tomoe-kan hut

We got to “our” hut at 4:50PM. Reservations for Saito? Cost was about $65 per person and they throw in a free meal. It’s best to make reservations ahead of time, otherwise you might literally be left out in the cold. It was such a relief to get inside and away from the cold wind and rain. Dinner was served at 5:29PM and consisted of a cup of hot green tea, beef curry, hamburger steak and rice. After downing the Japanese TV meal, we retired to our “spacious” sleeping quarters upstairs. It was basically 12 futons sectioned off. We were supposed to keep quiet so as not to bother the other hikers that had retired early. But people walking up and down the hallway, chatting away and the PA blaring out names for dinner kept us up until around 9:30PM.

Heading into the storm

After groggily waking up at 1:00AM to the rain pounding the roof and the winds shaking the walls, we got ready to climb the last stretch to the summit and see the sunrise. One of the selling points for this hut was that they allowed you to leave your pack behind, so that you can climb to the summit relatively unencumbered. Guess who got to be the pack mule? We left the relative warmth of the hut at 2:01AM to head outside and resume our climb. There is usually a line of people waiting to make the final push to the summit. The weekday and the storm combined to cut the usual crowds to dozens instead of hundreds.

8.5 Station – Goraikou-kan hut

We met up again with Matthew at the 8.5 station hut. Too early to get a stamp, was running out of room on my stick anyway.

9th Station

The wind and rain seemed to get stronger as we got to the 9th station at 2:50AM. At an altitude of 11,811 feet, we only had 656 feet left to the summit. The Gore-Tex jackets and pants helped us to stay dry despite the pounding rain and freezing wind. The only thing we were missing was Gore-Tex gloves, as our hands were wet and freezing the whole way up.

One of two dog statues

I almost missed the two stone guardian dog statues at the summit entrance due to the storm, luckily a fellow hiker pointed it out.

What is that?

We could barely make out the summit torii as it was being washed over by the rain storm.

Hot cocoa at the summit

We made the summit at 3:29AM to be greeted by the twin neon glow of vending machines! On top of Mount Fuji! How odd and Japanese at the same time. The temperature must have been close to freezing at the top, so we all tried to find scant shelter from the wind and rain wherever it could be found. A couple minutes later, the outside lights came on and we were attracted like moths to a flame. Everybody was chomping at the bit to get inside and away from the cold. We had to wait a couple of minutes until they got everything ready. We all streamed inside, cold and shaking. At least a couple foreigners were wet and freezing as they had not come prepared and were close to hypothermia. The hut owners were charging $5 for a small cup of hot cocoa and $7 for a cup of noodles. But when you’re cold and wet, you would pay black market prices to get something warm in your tummy.

Inside or outside?

As the sunrise time came closer, I decided to venture out into the storm to try and get a picture of the sunrise. Key word – try.

Sunrise?

We made it to the top of a 12,172 foot mountain to get buffeted and pelted by a freezing rain storm, all to see a magnificent sunrise. Instead we caught a brief flash of light at 4:46am, before the clouds quickly swallowed it back up. Such is life.

Where’s the view?

Photo opportunity. At least we got a sign to take our picture with, but we would rather have the sunrise. Pretty please.

Final stamp at Kusushi shrine

Getting the final stamp on my stick. I collected a total of 22 stamps on my stick, which cost about $36. We forgot to pray at the shrine.

Safe to go down?

No chance of walking around the crater in this weather. We had to pay one of the shop owners to get our postcards mailed from the summit, as it was out of the question to walk to the post office on the crater in this storm. We also paid $8 for a bowl of pork miso soup to help keep warm. At 6:45AM, the storm was still raging but at somewhat reduced strength, so we decided to make our way down. The trail is not the same as the one coming up. It connects to the 8th Station and then switchbacks all the way down to the 6th Station, bypassing all the huts and along with that the snacks, water and benjo (toilet). 

Windy trail down

The wind was literally pushing us around as we made our way down the Yoshida trail. We hugged the mountain side going down, as this trail section didn’t have any fencing to prevent us from being blown off the trail. It was that windy!

Snow in July!

We came across a patch of snow. Not enough to make a snowman, but enough for a snowball fight.

Going back to Tomoe-kan hut

Making our way back to the 8th station hut.

Picture taking time

As we got lower, the clouds started to clear up. Prompting almost everybody to stop and take out their cameras as it was a no view hike until now.

Clouds clearing

The cloud deck started opening up to reveal the mountains and lakes.

Fuji-san’s slope

Taking a small detour to get back to our hut to retrieve Mari’s backpack.

Slip and slide

Coming down the pitched volcanic ash trail tripped Mari going down. Luckily only her ego was bruised.

Go left, not right

Here the trail continues to the left on a narrow trail that continues down the mountain.

Extreme hiker?

We saw this one hiker that was not doing the switchbacks. He just ran down the side of the mountain using walking sticks as support and brakes. Not smart and safe for other hikers. As he was running down, he was dislodging rocks onto the trail and almost fell off. Mount Fuji is not a technical hike and can be done by most people of all ages in reasonable good physical condition. Now if you want to make this hike an extreme one, check out this link!

Nice view

A nice view of the scenery below us.

Bulldozer has the right of way

We saw numerous bulldozers coming up the trail as work crews started working on excavating new trails. This is how sick people get down the mountain.

Best anpan?

We took an anpan break at sign #42 at 9:05AM. The hut we bought it from said it was the best anpan, when you are hungry, your stomach will agree with anything. It was actually pretty tasty.

Views are getting better

As we kept dropping in altitude, the clouds starting to clear up along with great views. Too bad it wasn’t like this at the top!

Scenic viewpoint #1

Mari with Lake Yamanaka in the cloudy background.

Scenic viewpoint #2

The town of Fujikawaguchiko in the cloudy background.

Coming down

We passed the last set of tunnels that are supposed to protect hikers from falling rocks.

Need a ride back?

As we made our way back down, there were a couple of oji-sans (older men) with horses calling out to hikers if they wanted a ride back. For a small fee of course.

We made it!

We made it back down to the 5th station at 11:14am. The round trip was a total of 13.8 km or 8.57 miles. We gained 1,405 meters or 4,610 feet in elevation. We were both so happy to have completed the hike to Fuji-san. As the Japanese say, a wise man climbs Fuji once, and a fool twice. Call us fools as we will be back for our sunrise!