This was our first hike towards completing the entire Koolau Summit from Makapu’u to Pupukea. Of course we plan on breaking it up into manageable chunks, not everybody can be Chase Norton. Mad props to that guy for hiking the entire Koolau Summit in eight days. I parked my car at the top of Kaluanui Road where the hike would end and my friend picked me up and we all met at the Makapu’u Lookout to start our hike. This was our first hike as a group that one of us called the Four Horsemen which included Glenn, Chance, Jason and myself.

Makapu'u

We made our way up the ridge following the chain link fence that had danger signs plastered over them. Looking back, we saw Makapu’u Point which means “Bulging Eye” in Hawaiian, sandwhiched in between the Makapu’u Lighthouse on the left and Pele’s Chair on the right, a natural rock formation that in Hawaiian legend, was the last place Madam Pele left on Oahu before settling on the Big Island. Speaking of fire, this part of the trail has zero shade, so it’s best to lather on the sunscreen or be prepared to be seared lobster red.

Sea Life Park

Further up the ridge, we were treated to views of Sea Life Park and the islands of Manana (Rabbit Island) and Kaohikaipu (Turtle Island). The sounds of barking seals from Sea Life Park punctuated the morning silence as we made our way up the ridge.

Early Goats

We followed the rocky ridgeline as we passed numerous interesting rock formations, some of which looked like jagged teeth protruding from the ground. We also noticed a herd of goats that were keeping an eye on us from the next hill over.

Rock climbing the Makapu'u Puka - Not

We also started dropping altitude as the ridgeline gradually dipped towards the Makapu’u Puka. Hawaiian legend has it that a warrior named Kaulanaakaiole threw either a spear or shot an arrow at a rat that created this hole or puka.

Three monkeys on a platform

After passing the puka, the ridgeline started to climb again as we gained elevation and reached the top. We passed some old Army barracks atop Kamehame Ridge that is now home to a teen program called Winner’s Camp. We then passed a rickety looking platform used by hang gliders and then came across another one where we clowned for the camera. 

Robin's Nest

The trail turned left from the second hang glider platform and we followed the stairs down and hung a right onto a paved road that led to the old Nike Missile Site, which was last used in the mid-60’s. Eventually a locked gate blocked us from continuing further up the road, but a hole in the fence on the left side allowed us to continue. From one of the abandoned towers that we climbed, we peered directly down into the Anderson Estate, which became famous for being used as “Robin’s Nest” in the popular 80’s TV show, Magnum PI.

Down in the saddle

After poking around the old Nike Missile Site, we picked up the somewhat indistinct trail masked in heavy bushes behind the last building and eventually went down a saddle that dropped several hundred feet in elevation. We then climbed out of the saddle up towards a clump of ironwood trees that provided much needed shade to have our lunch and enjoyed the views of Waimanalo.

Kamiloiki Ridge

We stopped briefly at Kamiloiki Ridge to see Mount Olomana and tried to locate Bumpy Kanahele’s 45 acre sanctuary, otherwise known as Pu’uhonua o Waimanalo.

Headed down the ridge towards the Tom-Tom trail

It is very easy to miss the right turn, ribboned branches and all, that will keep you on the Koolau Summit Trail and headed towards Mariner’s Ridge. We found this out as we continued to walk straight on the trail from Kamiloiki Ridge, luckily we figured it out pretty early and backtracked to the right turn. The trail rollercoasters until you reach the top of a hill where there are three poles, this marks the spot where the Tom-Tom trail descends down into Waimanalo.

Mariner's Ridge

As we pushed on past the Tom-Tom trail, the ridge went down and up a couple more times until we reached the top of Mariner’s Ridge. After that, it was a short and sweet stroll back down the trail towards our car on Kaluanui Road and next stop – Zippys.

Wanting to do a twist on the Kamiloiki hike that I had done over a month ago, and not wanting to thrash my legs again, we decided to hike from Kamiloiki ridge to Makapu’u. We parked one car at the Makapu’u lookout and then drove to find parking on Waioli Street , where we walked up Makahuena Place to start our hike.

Pahua Heiau

I never knew or imagined that an ancient Hawaiian temple or heiau was located smack dab in the middle of the sleepy suburbs in Hawaii Kai. But then again, the temple was here long before Henry Kaiser turned Kuapa Pond into his planned residential development in East Oahu. The trailhead starts from the left side of the heiau, where we followed the trail through hale koa and dried grass to make the top of the ridgeline.

Rainbow over Kuapa pond

We quickly gained elevation and saw this beautiful rainbow over a drastically shrunken Kuapa Pond and Hawaii Kai neighborhood.

Rain over Kamiloiki Valley

Rainbows do not exist without raindrops, as we were about to find out when several passing clouds dumped rain on us as we walked on the exposed part of the ridge.  As we neared the summit, clumps of trees provided much needed shade from the hot sun, which quickly replaced the rain.

Waimanalo

We made the summit in about two hours, where blue skies greeted us along with views of Mount Olomana and Waimanalo.

Abandoned Nike Missile Site

We then followed the trail to the right which descended into a saddle and then back up to the ridge where the abandoned Nike Missile Site sits. It looks steep from afar, but once you get up close and personal, it’s just another climb up the mountain. Nothing to get excited about. Well, that’s what I kept telling my friend.

Koko Crater and Koko Head

After making our way through the abandoned Nike missile complex and checking out the views of Koko Crater and Hawaii Kai, we followed the paved road until we found the ribbon marking the Makapu’u trail on our left. Climbing up the dirt steps, we saw one of two hang gliding platforms which had fantastic views of the ocean and the Waimanalo coastline. Speaking of hang gliding platforms, that reminds me that I better use my Groupon coupon for paragliding lessons before it expires in November.

Rabbit Island

This part of the trail until Makapu’u is completely exposed, there is no shade from the withering sun. We brought sunscreen but failed to use it, so much for the supposed intelligence of some higher primates.

Makapu'u Puka

There is a natural rock formation coming down the trail that is called the Makapu’u Puka, which can also be seen from the road down below. Hawaiian legend has it that an archer saw a rat on the ridge and shot it with his arrow from his canoe, thus creating the hole that exists today. We also met another group that was doing the hike from the opposite way, after talking story a little bit, we went our opposite ways.

Makapu'u Lighthouse

We could see the Makapu’u Lighthouse in the distance, which was established in 1909 and has the largest lighthouse lens in the country.

Makapu'u Lookout

After hiking six hours in the hot sun and rocky cliffs, we arrived back at the Makapu’u Lookout. Now we had to complete the most dangerous part of the hike, crossing the road without getting hit or run over by the speeding cars.

I met up again with the Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club at the Makapu’u Point or Ka Iwi State Scenic Shoreline parking lot. The lot fills up real fast, as late comers ended up parking on the outside road. After a quick introduction, we started on the the paved trail that goes up to Makapu’u Point and shortly after the entrance, we struck off onto a dirt trail that lead us to the rocky coast.

Pele's Chair

We stopped at this natural lava rock formation known as Pele’s Chair, for obvious reasons. Legend has it that this was the last place Pele, a Hawaiian goddess of fire, lighting, dance and volcanoes, was on Oahu before she left to find her home on the Big Island. Climbing down towards the coastline, we spotted a monk seal sunbathing on the rocks, perfectly camouflaged unless you looked and squinted real hard.

Tide pools

The Makapu’u coastline is dotted with numerous tide pools teeming with marine life. Expect to get your feet wet. Or you can be like these hikers and contour these rocks to get around the tide pools. Just don’t slip, otherwise you may get more than your feet wet.

Splish Splash

Besides getting wet, we had to watch and time the ocean waves that were crashing onto the shoreline, when crossing parts of the Makapu’u coast. Some of these waves looked like they could wash you out to sea, if you’re not careful.

Cave

We all took a break at this cave and ventured inside to take a look see. One hiker took a photograph with his digital camera and claimed to have captured a spirt or orb. There was also a small opening at the end of the cave that seemd to go somewhere. Nobody volunteered to find out.

The Moon?

After the cave, we made our way down this particularly rocky and hilly part, that if you didn’t watch your step, you could take a tumble.

Dragon's Nostrils

Most of us took our lunch next to these spectacular twin blowholes known as the “Dragon’s Nostrils.” It put on a much better show than the Halona Blowhole.

Uphill

After enjoying our lunch and nature’s show, we hiked up the mountain to the top of Makapu’u Point. I mistakenly contoured more to the right and ended up taking the steeper trail up, while the smarter ones took the less steep trail to the left.

Makapu'u Lighthouse

This is the view from the top of the mountain where you can see the Makapu’u Lighthouse which was first illuminated in 1909 and completely automated in 1974. The lighthouse boasts the largest hyperradiant lens at 12′ high in the country. I heard some hikers have actually made it to the lighthouse, but the trail is blocked by a locked gate. I’m sure where there is a will, there is a way.

Manana Island

We made our way down from the top back towards the parking lot. Here we had a better view of Manana Island or Rabbit Island, which was once home to rabbits, but now is a seabird sanctuary.

Makapu'u Crag

Hiking down, we passed the Makapu’u crag, where folks come to practice rock climbing and rapelling.

Makapu'u Beach

Coming down we had a nice view of Makapu’u Beach and Waimanalo. The entire hike took about four hours and was a nice scenic stroll along the coastline.