The original plan was to head West, but with the impending demise of the iconic stairs, some in the group wanted to visit it for one last time.

Haiku Valley

We all gathered at Allison’s place, some had a bite of pizza to eat and then shook the papaya trees on our way down the hill. Just needed some chickens and moringa leaves to round out the pot.

Haiku Valley

Jasper seeing us off on the trail.

Haiku Valley

Who brings a bag to the hike? Must be his superhero costume packed inside.

Haiku Valley

Leaving the relative obscurity of the bamboo forest as we made our way out.

Haiku Valley

Somebody would rather do the photographing instead of being the one photographed as we hit the access road.

Haiku Valley

Walking on the road less traveled. We hope.

Haiku Valley

Can you smell that? Is that Cheech and Chong near the abandoned shack?

Haiku Valley

Group photo under the shadow of the H3 highway at the entrance to the stairs.

Haiku Valley

Workers used to ride in this cable car to the peak, climbing Haiku Ladders was not the preferred option. Photo taken by Dave Jessup, Ted Urquhart, and John Flanigan.

Haiku Stairs

Is that a welcome sign greeting us?

Haiku Stairs

Who needs hiking shoes? Not Darryl. No socks to wash.

Haiku Stairs

The first stair module had already been removed by Nakoa Companies in preparation for the eventual dismantlement of the entire stairs.

Haiku Stairs

Circumventing around the structure which was invented by Charles Barnard in 1844.

Haiku Stairs

The rest of the group making their way around the chain link fence and slippery rocks.

Haiku Stairs

Going up the longest incline stretch of the stairs. Following in the footsteps of Bill Adams and Louis Otto, the Navy sailors who pioneered the route and climbed to the peak in 21 days back in 1942.

Haiku Stairs

Hikers practicing proper trail etiquette.

Haiku Stairs

We ran across Aileen, Haig and Lennard who had climbed up earlier to bear witness to a denied sunrise.

Haiku Stairs

Mona looking back towards the ridge that is home to Stairway to Hell.

Haiku Stairs

Allison navigating through the twisted sister section of the stairs that was damaged in a landslide back in February of 2015. The death of the stairs was greatly exaggerated by the fourth estate.

Haiku Stairs

Akira and Sandra with the backdrop of the H3 highway as it disappears into the Ko’olau Mountains. The Tetsuo Harano tunnels are 4,980′ long Kaneohe bound and 5,165′ Halawa bound.

Haiku Stairs

A day late and a dollar short. One is supposed to stretch before the hike. Better late than never.

Haiku Stairs

What’s that saying? “In a group, you only need to be faster than the slowest one to escape.”

Haiku Stairs

Group photo on the first platform.

Haiku Stairs

Back in 2020, a group over several days carried and assembled a trampoline on the first platform. While they got a lot of heat for it, nobody was hurt and it was all taken down the same day. No fuss, no muss.

Haiku Stairs

Tessa climbing down so that others may get their 15 minutes of IG fame.

Haiku Stairs

Chico on Profile Rock.

Haiku Stairs

Anybody missing a phone?

Haiku Stairs

One of the last known sightings of the endemic Lobelia gaudichaudii or Ko’olau Range lobelia circa 2011. A survey conducted in 2018 concluded that none of the woody shrubs no longer existed in the area. Photo provided by Sean Pager, Friends of Haiku Stairs.

Haiku Stairs

Practicing for when the stairs will no longer be here.

Haiku Stairs

Climbing our way to heaven.

Haiku Stairs

Enjoying the expansive views while we can.

Haiku Stairs

People perceive that you have a good chance of having a higher IQ when seen wearing glasses. However, without the lens, the pendulum swings the other way.

Haiku Stairs

Passing Chris on his way down the stairs. He had come up from Moanalua Saddle as he preferred hiking the safe route.

Haiku Stairs

Sandra at the top of the next platform.

Haiku Stairs

Hello from the next ridge over! Akira and I decided to check out the thin ridge which could have used a set of stairs.

Haiku Stairs

Going up the short flight of stairs to the Hoist House.

Haiku Stairs

This one is off the Scoville chart.

Hoist House

Never stop exploring. Ridge for another day.

Hoist House

Outside looking in.

Hoist House

Inside looking out.

Hoist House

There were not any available trees to climb, so the boys made do with what they had on hand.

Hoist House

Akira climbing over the roofless shelter.

Hoist House

How the structure looked back in the day. Photo taken by Dave Jessup, Ted Urquhart, and John Flanigan.

Hoist House

Leaving the graffitied building behind us.

Haiku Stairs

Have big hand to fill.

Haiku Stairs

Foot not big enough either.

Haiku Ladder

The original stairs known as Haiku Ladder, was constructed out of wood and later replaced by galvanized metal in 1955. Some of the original wood ladder sections are still scattered at the bottom of the hill. The Navy maintained the radio site from 1943 to 1970 and then it was reconfigured as part of the OMEGA radio navigation system from 1971 to 1997 and managed by the Coast Guard, where it was eventually shut down due to the advent of GPS which rendered the OMEGA system obsolete. The City acquired ownership in 1997 and spent $875,000 to fix the stairs in 2002 to eventually open it up to the public. However; the issues of access, trespassing and liability stalled any chances of opening the hike to the public. The Honolulu City Council voted unanimously in 2021 to remove the stairs after decades of misinformation, neighborhood complaints about trespassing hikers, lobbyists using their influence, multiple landowners that failed to come to a consensus and nobody wanting to take ownership of the stairs. The powers that be just wanted the “problem” to go away. Mayor Blangiardi announced in April of 2024 that Nakoa Companies was awarded a $2.6 million contract to take down the entire stairs. The same company that fixed the stairs in 1997 and took down the swing in 2016. Something finally happened, but not in favor of the hiking community. Photo taken by Dave Jessup, Ted Urquhart, and John Flanigan.

Haiku Stairs

Climbing up the last steep section.

Haiku Stairs

Looking down at the rest of the group making their way up.

Haiku Stairs

Approaching the CCL (Communications Control Link) Building and the terminus of the 3,922 steps. The count is actually less due to people taking steps home as souvenirs.

Haiku Stairs

Chris coming back up from the stairs.

Haiku Swing

Somebody had constructed a chain swing between the two poles at the summit circa 2015, however, due to a viral video in 2016 that showed a hiker slipping from the seat and dangling near a seemingly precipitous drop, which was just camera angles, the city swiftly took down only the poles the next day as an intrepid group of hikers had earlier taken down the swing. Urban legend has it that the swing is sitting in somebody’s yard.

CCL Building

Three of us decided to climb up to the moss slicked concrete roof that are home to the now defunct microwave antennae.

CCL Building

Sandra wanted to leave a lei on the antenna structure as the winds and rain shook and swept the area.

CCL Building

Rain soaked view of the top of the structure.

CCL Building

The rest of the group had retired to seek refuge from the sweeping rain showers as the unmasked hero cooked banana lumpia for us.

CCL Building

Champagne and Banana Lumpia at the summit. Where’s the Coke?

CCL Building

Some tourist was being frisked and somebody was being frisky. Hey, I thought that was Spider-Man’s job!

CCL Building

Group photo inside the structure. Spasiba!

CCL Building

Back in the day, the building housed equipment that provided emergency communication back-up for the ground link with Pearl Harbor, Ford Island Naval Air Station, Wahiawa Naval Radio Station and Lualualei Naval Radio Station. Now, Spider-Man uses it to hang out with his friends.

CCL Building

Our group photo at Stairway to Heaven at 2,820′ elevation.

Stairway to Heaven

The stairs gained even more publicity when it was featured in the Magnum PI episode “J. “Digger” Doyle” that aired back in 1981. The 15 minutes of fame is probably what lead to the decision by the US Coast Guard to shut it down in 1987 after the stairs were trashed and vandalized.

Haiku Stairs

Back outside to play in the rain as we made our way back down.

Haiku Stairs

Goodbyes are always hard. For some, harder than others.

Haiku Stairs

Coming down the cloud and rain soaked Stairway to Heaven.

Haiku Stairs

Approaching the Hoist House on our way down.

Haiku Stairs

Descending down the stairs as we dropped in elevation and gained the views back at the expense of the clouds.

Haiku Stairs

By some conservative estimates, thousands of hikers make the climb up and down the stairs annually. Despite erroneous claims that the stairs are dangerous, there has never been a single death on the stairs, except one person that died of a heart attack in 2012. According to HFD’s own statistics, 41 people needed to be rescued from the stairs during a period from 2010-2022. That averages out to three rescues a year. In contrast, Diamond Head in 2022 saw 40 rescues alone in just a year’s period.

Profile Rock

Mona soaking in the views one last time? Perhaps.

Haiku Stairs

One of the most asinine comments made by a local politician came from City Councilwoman Esther Kiaaina who stated in April 2024, that the removal of the stairs will restore the beauty of the scenery. “This is a manmade contraption on a natural valley,” said Kiaaina. “Restoring the valley and providing a natural setting so that people could remember what Haiku valley was.” Well, she might as well advocate for removing the major eyesores that have marred the beauty of the amphitheater valley and its surrounding areas. Namely, the homes and H3 highway to name a few. The saying “follow the money” to trace political corruption and influence rings true in this case. Of the five council members up for reelection in 2024, Esther Kiaaina collected the most money at about $79,000, according to her campaign filing. One has to wonder if any of her donors have a stake in the stairs removal? Enquiring minds want to know.

Haiku Stairs

If GPS hadn’t made the OMEGA station obsolete in 1997, there would have been a steel mesh cage that would have covered the H3 highway through the valley. It was thought that the electromagnetic waves would interfere with anybody that had a heart pacemaker. Talk about timing, otherwise the valley would have looked completely different than it does today.

All pau

Walking back to our cars in the rain. Elephant ears optional.

GPS Tracks

Our up and down hike on one of the island’s most storied trails covered a little under three miles. Some in the group were hoping against hope that the stairs will be preserved for future generations. Has the final chapter be written on the stairs? Only time will tell. Post hike meal at Saito & Pho where East Asian meets Southeast Asian food.

Photos taken by Agnes Bryant, Akira Suzuki, Allison Banks, Chico Cantu, Chris Bautista, Daryl Cacatian, Ferlino Carinio, Monaliza Guillermo, Sandra Walter, Tessa Bugay, and yours truly. Not necessarily in order.

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers. One should also always let somebody know of your hiking plans in case something doesn’t go as planned, better safe than sorry.

We decided to visit Hell and Heaven today; I met up with Alexis, Analyn, Chris and Ferlino at Moanalua Valley.

Trailhead

Too early for the chickens. Only the dogs were barking as we started our early morning hike. Thanks to Jasmin for dropping us off.

Aiea Loop Trail

Bench with city light views.

Aiea Ridge Trail

New sign. Summit Trail. No Exit. Advanced. All good to know.

Aiea Ridge Trail

Ferlino crossing the landslide area under spotlight.

Tripler Ridge

Climbing up the steady and steep ridge. Photo by Analyn Baliscao.

Pu’u Kawipo’o

Taking a break at the large, grassy hill top. The dolphin had “swum” over to another branch.

Aiea Ridge Trail

Approaching the power lines which sits at the base of the summit, where the clouds blocked the views but not the cacophony of civilization that floated to the mountains.

Ko’olau Summit Ridge Trail ( KSRT)

Making our way along the muddy ridge, Chris slipped and a branch poked him below his eye. Mountain first aid rendered – Bactine sprayed on and medical tape slapped on. Good to go.

KSRT

Looking back at the rest of the group making their way on the cloud shrouded ridge.

KSRT

The sun was fighting through the clouds.

KSRT

The rest of the group getting off the ridge and contouring around the protected plant enclosure.

KSRT

Peeking around the corner.

KSRT

Group photo on our descent down to Hell where we ran into a friend who was ascending, left to right: Chris, Alexis, Analyn, Noah, myself, Ferlino and Shirley. Can I shake your hand?

KSRT

Chris’s face says it all. We got a view!

Stairway to Hell

The dress was on. The flag was out. Time to take our group photo.

Bunker

Chris checking to see if the tent collection had grown since our last visit. Photo by Ferlino Carinio.

KSRT

Leaving the chilly haunt of Hell. Which begs the question. Why is Hell not so hot?

KSRT

Making our way to the summit of Red Hill, where we soon …

Moanalua Saddle

… dropped into the crumbly saddle. Rope? I don’t need no stinking rope.

Moanalua Saddle

Comin’ down the mountain. But first take my picture.

Moanalua Saddle

Humping over the saddle.

Kulana’ahane Summit

The running man. Going the wrong way. Medical tape is not only good for facial cuts but torn pants as well. Photo by Analyn Baliscao.

Moanalua Saddle

Going up through the tangled and twisted roots that carpeted the ridge.

Moanalua Saddle

The group contouring their way up the Windward side of the ridge.

Moanalua Saddle

Making our way to the main obstacle on the ridge. Photo by Analyn Baliscao.

Dirt Triangle

Alexis climbing up from the Leeward side. Photo by Analyn Baliscao.

Moanalua Saddle

Crawling our way up the eroded ridge.

Moanalua Saddle

Don’t touch that crumbly rock?

Moanalua Saddle

Looking back at the H-3 Highway snaking its way through Halawa Valley.

Moanalua Saddle

The group climbing out of the saddle.

Moanalua Saddle

Going up the back stairs.

Stairway to Heaven

Not going down the front stairs.

CCL Building

Throwing shakas out at the 2,720′ summit. Somebody needs to get with the program.

KSRT

Leaving Heaven behind us with views of Kalihi and Nu’uanu Saddles to our front.

KSRT

Dropping down from the MMR junction, we saw a helicopter perched on Tripler Summit ahead of us and decided to see if we could reach it before it took off.

KSRT

No climbing today. Read the sign.

KSRT

We briefly interrupted the workers on the power lines as we quickly passed underneath them. Safety first. Mahalo.

Tripler Summit

A minute late and a helicopter short. Photo by Chris Bautista.

Tripler Summit

The helicopter pilot skillfully flew the workers up and down the spur ridges, dropping and picking them up.

Tripler Summit

No, we are not being rescued.

Tripler Ridge

Leaving the summit and the helicopter ride (wishful thinking) behind us.

Powerlines Ridge

We abbreviated the long Tripler ridge by taking the spur ridge down to the power lines, passing an abundance of smashed guavas on our way down.

Moanalua Valley

Making our way out from the back of the valley.

Moanalua Valley

I think we had our fill of California grass on this hike and then some.

Kamananui Valley Trail

Does somebody need medical tape on their butt again? Photo by Ferlino Carinio.

All pau

End of the long road. End of a long day. Somebody needs to get with the program. Photo by Ferlino Carinio.

GPS Tracks

Our two for the price of one hike covered a little over 13 miles. Fun day with a great group. Post hike meal at Lilihia Bakery. Oxtail soup tastes better when a dead fly falls out of your eye.

Note: I have been made aware the some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers.

Haiku Stairs or Haiku Ladder or Stairway to Heaven is one of the “outlaw” hikes on the island. The State closed the hike to the public in 1987 when vandals and years of hiking took its toll on the stairs making it unsafe. Yet in 2002, the State spent a reported $875,000 to fix the stairs to avoid liability as people continued to hike the stairs, but failed to get an agreement over land access, so the stairs remains closed to the public. Determined not to let our tax dollars go to waste, we got up before the crack of dawn and parked in Haiku Valley. This was our second attempt to climb Haiku Stairs, as almost a month ago we were turned away by the guard that watches over the trailhead. We slipped through the gates and found the well-trodden path going into a bamboo forest, popped into a clearing and went back into the bamboo forest. After going through the hole in the chain link fence and following the road to your right which takes you to the trailhead, we were in luck as the guard was not at his post yet, but found almost a dozen hikers ahead of us making their way around the gate that blocks the stairs.

Going up

Keep in mind that Haiku Stairs is on the windward side of the island, the side that rains a lot. Today was no exception. Going up the stairs, a passing rain shower dumped buckets of water on us and was gone after a couple of minutes.

Stairs and more stairs

The metal stairs are quite narrow, all 3,922 of them, which makes passing other hikers sometimes problematic. But it wasn’t a problem for us. If somebody stopped ahead of us, it was a good reason for us to catch our breath!

H3 Freeway

Stopping and looking back down, the H3 Freeway snakes through Kaneohe and disappears into the Koolau mountains. Resist the urge to wave to the cars below you, as some drivers have mistaken the friendly waves for distress signals and called 911.

Rainbows

There are five platforms on the way to the top, where you can take a well-deserved breather and take in the awesome sights, such as this triple rainbow that briefly appeared from the first platform.

Stairway to Heaven

As we left the first platform, the clouds started to roll in, obscuring the top. We were climbing into the clouds via the “Stairway to Heaven.”

Motivation

Some hikers have left inspiring messages on the handrails to keep you motivated to reach the top.

View to the North

Looking to the North, you can see from Kaneohe to Kaawa.

Kaneohe Bay

You can see Kanoehe Bay and Mokapu Peninsula, home to a Marine base, that partly encloses the Southern end.

View to the South

Looking into Kailua and the three peaks of Olomana.

Stairway to Heaven

The top of the mountain that stands at 2,720 feet. It took us close to two hours to reach the top. The view from the top was completely socked in with clouds, the view was actually better going up than when we got to the top.

Communications Control Link

The top of the CCL building which was once used to communicate with the Wahiawa communication station until it was closed back in the 1950’s. We waited around to see if the clouds would clear up, no such luck. Going back down the stairs took about an hour. The guard didn’t bother us when we got to the bottom, as he seems to be there to prevent people from going up, but I have heard that sometimes HPD is called to issue citations. The hike is moderately hard in terms of effort, but easy in the sense that it goes straight up and down and you have support in the form of the stairs and the rails. Also, please remember this hike is closed to the public.