Kalalau Trail

by kenji SAITO on March 5, 2022

Hiking Kalalau Trail

Flew over to the oldest island in the inhabited Hawaiian chain to hike what many consider to be one of the most scenic and remote trails in the world. They are not mistaken.

Kapa'a

Kapa’a

Thanks to Scott for picking us up and putting us up at his place for the night. Some of us got pretty close to realizing their childhood dreams. Others just had to settle for a KFC dinner.

Ha'ena State Park

Ha’ena State Park

Randy picked us up at the crack of dawn to shuttle us to the end of the road. Running commentary was welcomed. Permits were cursory checked upon our arrival.

Ha'ena State Park

Ha’ena State Park

Walking on the boardwalk that sliced through the taro fields and clucking chickens.

Kalalau Trail Head

Kalalau Trail Head

Group photo left to right: Roseann, Aida, myself, Quan, Lilyn, Marilyn, Allison and Tessa. One gender group was heavily over represented.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Pushing off on the only land access to the Na Pali Coast.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Some people like to hike with hiking sticks while others prefer not to tie their shoes on the trail. To each their own.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Quan standing on the scenic rock with the rugged coastline ahead of us.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Somebody looked befuddled or puzzled.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

One should keep at least 100′ distance from a helicopter landing and even more from a person pretending to be a helicopter landing.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Dropping down to sea level as we approached the first of two beaches on the trail.

Hanakapiai Stream

Hanakapiai Stream

Crossing the stream which can flash flood in the blink of an eye at the mile two mark. Talks of bridging the gap has supposedly gained traction and is supposed to be lurching ahead from 2013.

Hanak?p??ai Stream

Hanakapiai Stream

Leaving the heavy surf behind which had erased the beach and was crashing against the rocks.

Hanakapiai Falls

Hanakapiai Falls

To falls or not to falls? To bathroom or not to bathroom?

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

We gained enough elevation to pass the tsunami water mark.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

The poor mans version of weeping wall. Same island, different smell.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Only eight more miles left on the trail.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

It’s always harder climbing down then getting up here.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Surprisingly, we saw no chickens on this trail, despite them being found almost everywhere else on the island. There are however gamebirds such as this Erckel’s francolin introduced in 1957.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Hiking out of Hoolulu Valley.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Walking in the footsteps of the ancient Hawaiians that used this trail when Kalalau Valley used to be an active habitat for the ancient Hawaiians.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Tessa enjoying a scenic photo shoot while everybody waited their turn.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Looking into Waiahuakua Valley and the impressive waterfall plunging down the side of the mountain.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Filling up water at one of the numerous streams in one of the smaller hanging valleys.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Roseann picked up a long shafted projectile for hunting wild game in case somebody ate all her Pad Thai with Chicken.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Checking out a spur ridge.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

Around mile six, we entered the hanging valley.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

Dropping down into one of the many wrinkled folds in the mountain.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

We ran across a whistleblower engineer who was getting away from it all. The characters you meet on the trail.

Hanakoa Stream

Hanakoa Stream

Somebody needed a little help from her friends.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Some of us refilled our water supply before leaving the valley.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Is this the part where I need to start singing?

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Going down the slippery slope.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Hiking our way down the switchbacks while being mindful of the terrain underfoot that was made up of loose rocks and dirt.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

The group contouring their way around the jumbled pile of rocks.

Crawler's Ledge

Crawler’s Ledge

Let the singing commence! While much has been made of this particular stretch of trail that is characterized by an uneven narrow ledge dropping off to sheer cliffs, not one death has been attributed to this section. Most of the reported deaths on the trail have resulted from drowning. I’m not marginalizing the potential risk of the trail, just don’t always believe the hype, and believe in yourself.

Crawler's Ledge

Crawler’s Ledge

Nobody validated the name of this section and everybody used bipedal locomotion to make it across.

Crawler's Ledge

Crawler’s Ledge

The underfooting is mostly solid rock sporadically covered with a thin sheen of dirt.

Crawler's Ledge

Crawler’s Ledge

If it rained on this section, then the rocks will become slippery and then the risk needle may nudge up a tad. Luckily it didn’t rain on us today or any day that we were on the trail.

Crawler's Ledge

Crawler’s Ledge

Lack of trees and shrubbery heightend the exposure on the trail.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

The steepness of the cliffs slackened off somewhat as we came around the bend. Still steep enough for an avalanche.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Passing through what looked like a freshly cleared and graded section of the trail.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Hiking through another patch of exposed and crumbly cliffs.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

We caught up with the two ladies from San Diego who we had met earlier on the trail, who were thinking of turning around as they were not sure if they were going to make it before dark. Luckily, they decided to stick it out and finish it until the end.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Allison going down the built in steps installed to retard erosion.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

The goats were everywhere. Above us. In the bushes. Below us. Invasive species gone wild.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Three more miles. Almost there!

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Allison passing another trickling stream.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

We were getting closer.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Is that supposed to keep out the goats? Can’t they just contour around the barricade? Oh wait, the goats are everywhere! Maybe its a jumping hurdle so that the goats can keep in shape?

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Group photo at the weathered sign at the mile 10 spot. It says “This is sacred land. Give it your utmost care and respect. Leave knowing that you have preserved it for future generations.”

Red Hill

Red Hill

Dropping over 700′ in elevation as we made our way down to the beach.

Red Hill

Red Hill

Looking back at Red Hill. What goes down must go back up.

Kalalau Stream

Kalalau Stream

Our last stream crossing for the day at the 11 mile point.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Where the trail meets the beach, a remote stretch of sand that extends roughly a mile bordered by the valley and the ocean. Now we just had to pick our campsite.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

We set up camp in the tree line with perhaps a couple dozen other campers. A far cry from when this valley once supported thousands of Hawaiians until the late 1800s/early 1900s before the valley was sold to missionary families who brought in cattle and then the valley became a state park and nature reserve in the 1970s which in turn became a haven for hippie refugees who were eventually cleared out by the State. Scattered reports indicate that some people still live either part-time or full-time in the valley.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Catching the sunset at the beach.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Walking under moonlight to the waterfall.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

The waterfall that provides drinking water, showers and apparently photo opportunities.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Day 2
Some of us woke up to nature’s ceiling of night lights.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Good morning from Kalalau.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

A few of us decided to explore a nearby sea cave for our morning constitutional.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Following in the footsteps of others and the burrowing holes of the hermit crabs scattered across the beach.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Lilyn standing in the cavern

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Looking out towards the ocean that carved this cave out of the basaltic rock through constant surf erosion.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Strong surf and lack of suitable swim wear prevented us from exploring nearby Honopu Beach known for its famous arch, cliff backdrops and waterfalls.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Passing the waterfall and the goats that were at the top, the two legged and four legged ones.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Time for breakfast.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Somebody really wanted to keep the water purification item from lost and found. Thankfully it was returned to its rightful owner on our way out.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

Group photo on the beach before we broke down our campsite. Unfortunately, we did not have more time to explore deep in the valley to discover the Big Pool, Kalalau library, pakalolo patches, pizza oven, waterfalls, gardens, the beach and soothing surf. Not necessarily in that order. Just another reason to come back to this magical place.

Kalalau Beach

Kalalau Beach

The goats soon came down from the mountains to rummage through the campgrounds for tasty tidbits left behind by careless hikers. Luckily, a considerate friend put somebody’s backpack up in the tree that was out of their reach. As we all know, goats just love coconuts. On our way out, we saw a lot of butane fuel canisters, unused food packets, and even a portable shower that were discarded by lazy hikers who couldn’t pack out what they packed in.

Kalalau Stream

Kalalau Stream

The group trying not to get wet or washed down the stream.

Kalalau Stream

Kalalau Stream

Not to worry. A lifeguard was on duty and to boot, a potential tinder date. Have to widen the gene pool to maintain a robust diversity.

Kalalau Valley

Kalalau Valley

Five miles to our next campsite.

Kalalau Valley

Kalalau Valley

Roseanna had a keen eye for fruit on the trail. So far she racked up calamansi and now lilikoi. The trail shall provide. Roseann shall pick them.

Kalalau Valley

Kalalau Valley

Looking back at the fluted cliffs that give Kalalau her “character.”

Red Hill

Red Hill

Hiking in slippahs on the way back. I stuck with my untied shoelaces.

Red Hill

Red Hill

Heading up the hill as we passed multiple boats that were canvassing the shoreline and carrying sightseers and snorkelers.

Red Hill

Red Hill

Aida going up the rooted and dirt trail as we left the beach.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

The trail narrowed again in some parts.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Hiking under the imposing scale of the steep cliffs.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Dropping down into one of the small valleys where we ran across a pseudo plant like alien.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

It’s hard to believe that in the 1900s, cattle used to be driven in and out of the valley on these trails.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Soaking in the expansive views from the trail.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Quan crossing one of many small streams that feed the valleys.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Traversing the exposed section of the trail.

Crawlers Ledge

Crawlers Ledge

I think it was easier for most of the group the second time around, because I didn’t hear any singing in the background.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Somebody had to slip back into their shoes around this point, lest they slide off the trail.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Panoramic view of the trail as it wrapped around the hill.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Roseann scampering straight up the hill to avoid the switchbacks.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Going up the hill before we dropped back down into the hanging valley.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

Early dinner at one of two shelters at the campsite.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

Who brings evening wear to a hike?

Hanakoa Falls

Hanakoa Falls

Allison, Lilyn, Roseann and myself made a half mile twilight hike to the 1,000′ falls, however the topography of the area failed to reveal the full towering height of the falls. The flow was somewhat lacking in volume but the sheer scale supposedly dwarfs nearby Hanakapiai Falls, something which I sadly would not be able to verify on this hike.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

Somebody was looking for a place to stay. Aida?

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

Good night from Kalalau.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

The smell of toe jams was released from the morning campfire. Thanks Allison.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

Morning stretch before the last leg of the hike.

Hanakoa Valley

Hanakoa Valley

We broke down our tents and left the campsite.

Hono o na Pali

Hono o na Pali

Passing through part of the Natural Area Reserve that encompasses 3,579 acres in the Hanalei and Waimea areas.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

The fruit picker was at it again. This time shaking down the papaya tree.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Waving at the whales. Like they give a flip.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Making our way down towards the second beach.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Entering the tsunami and the practical joke zones.

Hanakapiai-Beach

Hanakapiai-Beach

Pro bono promotion for Hyperlite Mountain Gear. Do we get a sticker(s) at least?

Hanakapiai-Beach

Hanakapiai-Beach

Faking a sprained ankle to get your backpack carried down to the beach. Payback is named Lilyn.

Hanakapiai Beach

Hanakapiai Beach

Some people carried fruits on the way out. Others carried rocks.

Hanakapiai Beach

Hanakapiai Beach

Emotional rock stacking.

Hanakapiai Beach

Hanakapiai Beach

Swinging in the hammock for the photo opportunity.

Hanakapiai Beach

Hanakapiai Beach

Group photo at the beach with the rats in the rocks, along with Justin from Oahu who is seeking a qualified Filipino wife of child bearing age, and Marie and Karla from San Diego.

Hanakapiai Stream

Hanakapiai Stream

Making the two mile hike to Hanakapiai Falls was shelved for a return hike, so we all checked our packs for rocks and crossed our last stream on the trail.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Allo! No bye bye for me. Making special friends on the trail. I think it was the untied shoelaces that gave me away.

Kalalau Trail

Kalalau Trail

Allison descending back down towards the final beach on the trail.

All pau

All pau

We got back to our starting point with time to spare before our ride picked us up. Some of us took a dip at the nearby Ke’e Beach, while others snagged a free soda, showered and emptied the rocks out of their packs.

GPS Tracks

GPS Tracks

Our three day hike covered over 24 miles that was filled with spectacular scenery that lived up to its billing, good times and fun company. A visit to my burger restaurant was out of the question, so we settled on takeout food from Burger King. Free shake for the driver. Travel tip to hikers, always remove butane fuel tanks from your pack unless you enjoy being detained by airport police as TSA has a 100% detection rate.

Photos taken by Aida Gordon, Allison Banks, Lilyn Avendano, Marilyn Bermudez, Quan Haberstroh, Roseann Fai, Scot Dea, Tessa Bugay and yours truly. Not necessarily in order.

Note: I have been made aware that some hikers have been using my blog as a hiking guide and getting lost on the trails. Please note that this blog was made to document the hike for the crew(s) that did it. That is why some of my comments will seem to have no relevance or meaning to anybody outside of the crew(s) that hiked that trail. My blog was never meant as a hiking guide, so please do not treat it as such. If you find inspiration and entertainment from these hikes, that is more than enough. If you plan on replicating these hikes, do so in the knowledge that you should do your own research accordingly as trail conditions, access, legalities and so forth are constantly in flux. What was current today is most likely yesterdays news. Please be prepared to accept any risks and responsibilities on your own as you should know your own limitations, experience and abilities before you even set foot on a trail, as even the “simplest” or “easiest” of trails can present potential pitfalls for even the most “experienced” hikers.

Leave a Comment

{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

Wahinee01 May 19, 2022 at 9:43 pm

Awww, I miss kalalau already.. next time, let’s stay longer to explore the areas. Much Mahalo for documenting this awesome adventure.

Reply

kenji SAITO May 31, 2022 at 9:47 am

Aloha Tessa,
Yup that was def a grand adventure that needs to be explored more.
Mahalo

Reply

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