Fuji-san 2014

by kenji SAITO on July 23, 2014

Two fools paid another visit to Mount Fuji to collect our sunrise. Or so we hoped. Last year we had failed to see the sunrise due to a raging storm on top of the mountain. The two hour bus ride from Shinjuku did not look promising as we approached Fuji Hakone National Park as the summit was nowhere to be seen. Fingers crossed.

That will be one dollar

That will be one dollar

We got off the bus at the Kawaguchiko 5th Station and milled around for about 45 minutes to acclimate ourselves to the 7,545′ elevation. Using the bathrooms on Mount Fuji is not free and the toilets are non-flushing with microbes added to decompose the waste. Get use to that smell.

Can't see the mountain for the clouds

Can’t see the mountain for the clouds

Not an auspicious start to our hike as our goal was nowhere to be seen.

Horse model

Horse model

For $3, you too can sit on a horse and get your picture taken. Just like at the State Fair.

Donations gladly accepted

Donations gladly accepted

Before Mount Fuji was declared a World Heritage Site last year, it cost nothing to enjoy this iconic symbol of Japan. Now they have a tent set up to ask for ten dollar donations to help with the conservation of Mount Fuji. We gladly donated. A small price to enjoy such beauty.

Here we go again

Here we go again

Deja vu. We pushed off the trail at 10:50am with high hopes as the weather forecast had predicted no rain. They didn’t say anything about the clouds though.

Climbing route

Climbing route

We began our climb towards Fuji-san. Saw a lot of day tourists taking the lower trail.

Play misty for me

Play misty for me

The clouds seemed thicker and lower than last year.

Follow the flag

Follow the flag

Japanese tour guides often have flags with them so that the group can easily find and follow them. This was no tour guide.

Yamabushi

Yamabushi

Greetings of ohayo gozaimasu ( good morning ) rang through the crisp morning air from white garbed monks coming down from their mountain pilgrimage. They were happy. They were finished with the hike.

Easy way down

Easy way down

This guy took the horse ride down. Took a load off his feet and lightened his wallet by $30 too.

Falling rocks

Falling rocks

This concrete tunnel was built to protect hikers from falling rocks.

Sixth station

Sixth station

The first station hikers run across is the sixth station, where they are nice enough to pass out hiking maps. I’ll take my maps in English please. Other choices were Japanese, Chinese and Korean. Sorry, none in Hawaiian. Auwe!

That way

That way

The signposts made it quite difficult to get lost.

All smiles

All smiles

Mari smiling on the trail. Let’s see how long that lasts.

Standing on the berm

Standing on the berm

Looking down at the hikers coming up the switchbacks.

Lot of switchbacks

Lot of switchbacks

Switchbacks make up the bulk of the trails leading to the summit, rarely will you find a straight up trail. While this makes it easier, it also stretches out the time spent on the trail.

Lost and found?

Lost and found?

Rows of brightly colored miniature backpacks lined the sides of this switchback.

Huts as far as the eye can see

Huts as far as the eye can see

Huts that offered shelter, snacks and stamps started popping into view.

Two way traffic

Two way traffic

The owners coming back to reclaim their backpacks. This trail is usually one way going up. But who’s going to admonish kids going the wrong way? I gave them credit for making it this far.

Seventh station

Seventh station

The seventh station marks the beginning of the roughly dozen huts that dot Fuji’s backside.

Can you spot Spot?

Can you spot Spot?

A dog was enjoying an afternoon nap, seemingly unbothered by the passing huffing and puffing of hikers.

Only 3.8km to go

Only 3.8km to go

That’s 2.36 miles for metric challenged folks.

Still smiling

Still smiling

Mari developed a slight headache at the beginning and was struggling a bit.

Another hut

Another hut

Still on the seventh station?

Got snacks?

Got snacks?

Every hut hawked shelter, snacks and stamps. Thirsty? Try the Pocari Sweat? Not as bad as it sounds. This year, I didn’t buy a hiking stick and get them stamped at each hut. The novelty had worn off from last year. Besides, the stamp price had gone up from $2 to $3. If you get a stamp from each hut, that would cost you around $60! More money to buy Pocari Sweat.

Back to hiking

Back to hiking

If one hikes Mount Fuji outside of the official hiking season of July and August, no huts will be open for business.

Genki desuka?

Genki desuka?

Mari’s headache wasn’t going away, so she slapped on a nose strip which helped. We saw a couple other hikers wearing the same type of nose strip that probably had headaches as well.

One stick at a time

One stick at a time

One step and stick at a time. Slowly but surely we will get to the top.

Follow the arrows

Follow the arrows

Need medical assistance? Just a stone away.

No reservations required

No reservations required

Most huts require advance reservations. This one had openings.

Snow!

Snow!

Higher altitudes means snow on the mountains, even in summer.

Getting higher

Getting higher

We were leaving the clouds below us as we climbed higher.

Our first torii

Our first torii

Have we reached the promised land yet? Not by a long shot.

Hiking into the clouds

Hiking into the clouds

It’s always surreal to be hiking into clouds.

The finger

The finger

Some hikers started yelling “look at the cloud finger!” So I had to turn around and look. Can you see it?

Stay within the chains

Stay within the chains

A lot of hikers on the trail made for a slow pace. So I veered off the beaten trail sporadically. Not recommended. Safety first.

Smile break

Smile break

Mari taking one of many breaks to the top. Still smiling.

Eighth station

Eighth station

We finally moved up a number. Thought we were stuck at seven. From the seventh to the eight station, the huts are spaced out every 20 minutes or so. Many opportunities to stop and take a break.

Only 2.7km left

Only 2.7km left

Getting closer or 1.67 miles left to the summit. The air got noticeably thinner and colder. Time to break out the jackets.

Let's do this!

Let’s do this!

Ganbatte!

Panoramic view

Panoramic view

Click here for the larger image.

Above the clouds

Above the clouds

Taking a photo opportunity at one of the rest stops.

Air is getting thinner

Air is getting thinner

Time to break out the oxygen tablets.

Sucking oxygen

Sucking oxygen

Mari inhaling compressed air to combat the effects of the thin mountain air and hoping it would get rid of her headache.

One step at a time

One step at a time

Are we there yet?

Gateway to the clouds

Gateway to the clouds

Shashin o totte kudasai or please take our picture.

Fuji shrine

Fuji shrine

I wish I had paid more attention to a guide that was educating her group about this particular shrine perched on the slopes of Fuji. The group was foreigners comprised of Chinese and Westerners, so she was speaking English. Even more so, I should have paid attention.

1.8km to go!

1.8km to go!

Little more than a mile left!

Our hut for the night

Our hut for the night

We reached our hut, Tomoe-kan at an altitude of 11,154′ around 5:30pm. Home sweet home. At least for the night.

Damp and cramped

Damp and cramped

The musty futons from last year had been replaced by tacky, thin plastic sleeping bags that was permanently damp from the cold mountain air. Usually each “room” is shared by 10 hikers. Communal living at it’s finest. Luckily we only had to share it with four other hikers.

Sales pitch with our meal

Sales pitch with our meal

Nothing like eating your hamburger steak and curry washed down by hot green tea while being loudly reminded that anpan, postcards and trinkets were available for sale.

What time is it?

What time is it?

We woke up at the ungodly hour of 1am to get ready for the final push to the summit. The only good thing about waking up this early was that Mari’s headache was gone. Going to the outside bathroom in the middle of the freezing mountain night is not fun. Thank goodness for those heated toilet seats!

Getting chilly

Getting chilly

While the weather was not stormy like last year, the wind chill kept it freezing cold. Stark reminder that we were on top of a mountain. In the wee hours of the morning.

Traffic jam

Traffic jam

Snails pace going up behind other hikers shuffling up the mountain to catch the sunrise. Cruel joke.

We made it!

We made it!

The lion statues and torii welcomed us again to the summit of Mount Fuji at 12,388′ at 3:20am.

A better picture

A better picture

And then the clouds cleared. Actually this was taken later in the morning when the crowds had thinned out.

Civilization

Civilization

Twin beacons of hot and cold beverages tempted us with their neon glow. Vending machines are everywhere in Japan, even on top of Mount Fuji.

Wait for it

Wait for it

As we sat and shivered in the freezing wind, we bought $4 cans of hot cocoa to warm ourselves up outside and inside. Some enterprising hikers had brought their own stove with them and were busy cooking up hot ramen. The sun rises at 4:30am. So we all sat and waited with baited breath. Is that the sun we see? Not again! The mythical Fuji sunrise has eluded us again for the second time. Fools we are! After the major disappointment, we retreated into one of the huts to slurp down their $8 pork miso soup and $9 chewy ramen.

Better than nothing

Better than nothing

At 6am, we ventured out into the whipping wind to capture our consolation photo.

Is this volcano active?

Is this volcano active?

Peering into the maw of Fuji’s crater. Most people don’t realize that Fuji is an active volanco, with the last recorded eruption in 1708. One study speculates that the 2011 earthquake has made another eruption more likely.

Crater rim

Crater rim

Going clockwise around the crater rim that is known as ohachi-meguri. There are supposed to be eight peaks ringing the crater rim. Last year, we were unable to hike the rim due to a raging storm.

Neither rain, nor snow, nor sleet ...

Neither rain, nor snow, nor sleet …

Passing the post office. Yes. A post office on an active volcano.

Uma no se

Uma no se

Walking up the “horse’s back”, the slippery and steep slope to kengamine or the highest peak on the crater.

Unmanned weather station

Unmanned weather station

Last manned in 2004. Now a fully automated meteorological station that sweeps for incoming typhoons and heavy rain showers.

Highest point in Japan

Highest point in Japan

Standing on kengamine, the highest peak in Japan at 12,402′.

Snowball fight?

Snowball fight?

The snow was still pretty thick up on the rim. Took about an hour to traverse the entire rim.

Going back down

Going back down

After the wind had died down somewhat, we went down the Yoshida trail around 8am.

JSDF

JSDF

Japanese soldiers coming up the mountain. Part of their training in case Mount Fuji gets invaded by the North Koreans.

Scenic point

Scenic point

The views were definitely better at the lower elevations than the summit. Go figure.

Bulldozers have the right of way

Bulldozers have the right of way

This is how supplies, workers and sick hikers get up and down the mountain.

Sharing the anpan

Sharing the anpan

Munching on the best anpan ( sweet bean filled buns ) on the mountain. Well, that’s what the salesman said! It was actually pretty good and Mari’s favorite anpan in Japan.

Final stretch

Final stretch

It’s all down hill. Just don’t fall down again.

Got 3,000 Yen?

Got 3,000 Yen?

The day was drawing to a close and with no customers, this old man closed up shop and rode his horse back to town.

Almost there

Almost there

We could see the 5th station where we had started from the day before.

All pau

All pau

We made it back down the mountain around noon, happy and disappointed that we missed the sunrise again. Third time is the charm? Perhaps. The Japanese have a saying that you would be a fool not to climb Mount Fuji once, but a fool to climb it twice. So what would that make us if we do it a third time? We will be back for our sunrise to find out the answer!

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{ 55 comments… read them below or add one }

Steve Yun October 2, 2014 at 8:13 am

Looks like an awesome trip! Great pics, I definitely would like to go one of these days!

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kenji SAITO October 2, 2014 at 6:04 pm

Aloha Steve,
Thanks for visiting the site. Hope you make it up there one day!
Mahalo

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Laura Mattiucci October 2, 2014 at 8:28 am

Wow, awesome photographs! Some of the ones took at the higher locations actually made me dizzy! The comments with each picture are great and almost make you feel like we’re right there with you (almost)!
Thank you for sharing these photos, looks like a really great experience.

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kenji SAITO October 2, 2014 at 8:06 pm

Aloha Laura,
Yes the higher altitude made Mari dizzy too! Thanks for stopping by!
Mahalo

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Vasi Penisini October 2, 2014 at 9:12 am

Wow, I give you guys credit, to be able do it twice and maybe a third time, all power to you two….
Thank you for sharing your adventureous trip with us, really enjoyed it again. It felt like we went along with yall on the hike, so I guess there’s no need to try it, hahaha.( The truth is there is no way that I would make it half way up)

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kenji SAITO October 2, 2014 at 8:07 pm

Aloha Vasi,
It’s a walk on the mountain! Nothing like seeing and doing it in person!
Mahalo

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evelyn starkey October 2, 2014 at 10:38 am

Beautiful pictures. What an accomplishment. Climbing up there takes a lot of energy. Thank you for sharing and yes, maybe the third time is a charm.

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kenji SAITO October 2, 2014 at 8:07 pm

Aloha Evelyn,
Yes we are hoping the third time is a charm. Or somebody will be really disappointed ( again )!
Mahalo

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David Theriot October 3, 2014 at 12:43 am

Looks like an awesome trip together! I’m jealous!

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kenji SAITO October 3, 2014 at 5:42 am

Aloha David,
Thanks! You probably could run up the mountain in 2 hours flat!
Mahalo

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Chris-Chris October 3, 2014 at 7:49 am

Oh Mari-Mari! That sunrise hid from you and Kenji AGAIN! The pictures are FABULOUS! Yes, i believe the 3rd time will be the charm and you will see the Mt. Fuji sunrise!!!

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kenji SAITO October 3, 2014 at 3:09 pm

Aloha Chris-Chris,
Yup hopefully we will “catch” the sunrise next year!
Mahalo

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Pat Ashley October 3, 2014 at 10:46 am

I love the photos (especially the “play misty for me” and the “coloful backpacks.” Of course all the other photos are just so memorable.) Wish I could do the hike like you. You both look great! For the next time, Gambatte kudasai!

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kenji SAITO October 3, 2014 at 3:10 pm

Aloha Pat,
Thanks for stopping by. Feel free to join us next year!
Mahalo

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John 'n' Carol Hanlin October 3, 2014 at 12:27 pm

Carol and I send you our Congratulations for achieving your goal! As I sit in my easy chair and view your pictures, my knees ache and I feel like I’m hyperventilating. The views are spectacular! Aristo gosaimasu.

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kenji SAITO October 3, 2014 at 3:11 pm

Aloha John & Carol,
Thanks a lot! It was pretty high up there. Wish we had some of Carol’s lemon bars with us!
Mahalo

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Sandi Azevedo October 3, 2014 at 8:49 pm

Hi Mari,
Laura forwarded me the email. Wow! I give you credit. Awesome! You too Kenji, though you seem to be more experienced. Great pictures. So Mari, do you agree to third time’s a charm?

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kenji SAITO October 3, 2014 at 9:06 pm

Aloha Sandi,
Thanks for dropping in. Mari said it’s great to hear from you again! Yes, third time’s a charm. It better be! LOL.
Mahalo

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Rie Choo October 3, 2014 at 9:03 pm

Thanks Mari and Kenji for sharing us your photos. I’ve always admired Fuji-san for far way and never attempted to climb. But your photos made me want to do it too. Maybe I’ll put it on my bucket list? Hard part is I never visit Japan in July/August. Too hot, too crowded for me.

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kenji SAITO October 3, 2014 at 9:07 pm

Aloha Rie,
Thanks. Yes it’s hot in the summer, but once you start climbing, bring your sweater! Can’t do anything about the crowds though! Still gotta try it at least once!
Mahalo

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Dr Engle October 6, 2014 at 10:07 am

Awesome write up, excellent pictures, amazing place! I dislike crowds, but I would love to explore Mount Fuji and absorb it all in, it seems to be a very unique Japanese hiking experience.

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kenji SAITO October 6, 2014 at 12:41 pm

Aloha Dr. Honolulu,
Thanks Tom! You and Carol should definitely make it out there one day!
Mahalo

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Loren Akana October 9, 2014 at 5:09 pm

Kenji, Mari,
awesome photos. hope you can get that sunrise the next time you try.

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kenji SAITO October 9, 2014 at 5:30 pm

Aloha Loren,
Thanks for reading our blog. We really hope to see the sunrise too!
Mahalo

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Cheri October 9, 2014 at 9:54 pm

Mari

I’m sure the 3rd time will be the charm. It’s too high for me, but you can take me with you to Japan with you. I’ll wait for you at the bottom. LOL

Cheri

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kenji SAITO October 10, 2014 at 6:05 am

Aloha Cheri,
Thanks for stopping by. We hope the 3rd time will be the one too!
Mahalo

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John Garrity October 10, 2014 at 9:23 pm

Nice pictures! Especially the lovey-dovey ones with you two smiling! Climbing Fuji brings back a lot of memories for me…dakara arigato :)

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kenji SAITO October 10, 2014 at 9:48 pm

Aloha John,
Thanks! Maybe you can make new memories on Mont Blanc!
Mahalo

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Ron Kimura October 10, 2014 at 10:33 pm

Kenji,
It looked really fun and adventurous! It has always been a life long dream to visit Japan. Maybe I’ll get the chance someday. Thanks for sharing! I think it’s wonderful that you and Mari were able to share in the experience together!

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kenji SAITO October 11, 2014 at 6:02 am

Aloha Ron,
Stop dreaming and jump on a plane with V-3! Oh and take your wife too! LOL.
Mahalo!

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Matthew Vidaurri October 11, 2014 at 3:07 am

Kenji and Mari. Awesome Pics. So jealous that you guys were able to hike to Mt Fuji. Everytime we take the shikanzen from Tokyo to Kyoto we always see Mt. Fuji and only wish we could go up there. I always tell my wife lets do it but she doesn’t think she can do it. Mari, how was the attitude sickness and your legs? Did it affect you at all. My wife is not an avid hiker she doesn’t think she can do it. Thank you for sharing your folks experience w/ us. Arigatoo Gozaimashita!

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kenji SAITO October 11, 2014 at 6:05 am

Aloha Matt,
Thanks for stopping by. Mari is not an avid hiker, so your wife can do it. Just take it easy and enjoy the experience. We saw a lot of 60s and 70s and 80s year old hikers going up! Just jump off that Shinkansen and get on the mountain!
Mahalo

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Troy October 11, 2014 at 5:24 am

Nice journey you two took there! Sorry your wife had to endure a painful headache. This for sure is a bucket list hike for me. I have to remember shashin o totte kudasai.

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kenji SAITO October 11, 2014 at 6:06 am

Aloha Troy,
Thanks! A headache is a small price to pay to go up Fuji. LOL. If you forget the words, just point at the camera and yourselves! Works all the time.
Mahalo

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dirt_ninja October 11, 2014 at 6:18 am

Nice job guys! Ive always wanted to go to Japan! But nice work with Mt.Fuji the pics look awesome! I bet it was an once in a life experience!

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kenji SAITO October 11, 2014 at 6:27 am

Aloha Chris
Thanks. It was a twice in a lifetime experience. LOL.
Mahalo

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Marvin October 11, 2014 at 10:52 am

Great post, looked like a fun trip and guess it’s cool that the volcano didn’t go off while you were there. Use a facemask for Fuji#3 to stay warm

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kenji SAITO October 11, 2014 at 4:08 pm

Aloha Marv,
Thanks and great idea for the trip for next time!
Mahalo

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Jasmin Nepomuceno October 11, 2014 at 2:00 pm

Hello!
I really enjoyed reading your blog, it’s just like reading a book. I like all of the pictures and it’s looks like a cool place. I don’t think I can do this hike however, it looks crazy enough with the cold weather. I think I’d rather hike here in Hawaii. Thank you so much for sharing your adventures and keep it going. Aloha!

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kenji SAITO October 11, 2014 at 4:10 pm

Aloha Jasmin,
Thanks so much. You have done grinders with me that is easier than this hike. It’s only cold up near the top. Give it a shot!
Mahalo

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Chris C October 12, 2014 at 2:37 pm

Awseome job to the both of u! One day I will go to Mt. Fuji, beautiful Place to go to.
I really enjoy his blogs and adventures!

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kenji SAITO October 12, 2014 at 4:42 pm

Aloha Chris,
Thanks for the kind words. When you make it to Mt, Fuji, start from the bottom to make it challenging!
Mahalo

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Rebecca October 13, 2014 at 9:57 am

Love the amazing views!!! Great Photos! Would be an awesome hike to do. Third times a charm on the sunrise? :)

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kenji SAITO October 13, 2014 at 6:09 pm

Aloha Rebecca,
Thanks for dropping in. We hope third time’s the charm! Getting up at 1am gets harder every year!
Mahalo

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Steven and Brenda October 13, 2014 at 4:08 pm

Dear Kenji and Mari,

Great pictures,felt like we were climbing the summit with you. Each of the scenic photos were awesome and the feelings you express at each stop was felt by us. We thank you for excluding us in your vacation! Enjoy and hope to hear from you soon.

Steve and Brenda Trice

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Steven and Brenda October 13, 2014 at 4:14 pm

:) I mean including:):):)

Steven and Brenda

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kenji SAITO October 13, 2014 at 6:12 pm

Aloha Steven and Brenda,
Thanks for reading our blog. Haha, well you were excluded in a way as you didn’t come with us, but I knew what you meant! We all have to get together again for the next ARINC re-union!
Mahalo

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Sandy momohara October 15, 2014 at 11:17 am

What awesome pictures and great stories. Kenji you really put a lot of effort in all the pics and the explanation for each. You know may be the third time the sunset may on your side. Not sure whether Mari-San would want to do it again!!! Thank you for sharing your fantastic hike.

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kenji SAITO October 15, 2014 at 1:38 pm

Aloha Sandy,
Thanks for the kind words, but Mari was my proofreader/editor on this one! You won’t believe how many revisions I had to do! She said she really likes Fuji-san, so she will be back!
Mahalo

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Tracey October 15, 2014 at 5:20 pm

Thank you for sharing Mari! We missed Mt Fuji this trip, but went to the Fifth Station the last time we went to Japan. Your blog made it real .. hope you’re enjoying your trip!

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kenji SAITO October 15, 2014 at 7:02 pm

Aloha Tracey,
Glad you enjoyed the blog. I’m sure you guys will make it up to the mountain next time!
Mahalo

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Thessa B October 18, 2014 at 9:29 am

Wow!! Amazingly, awesome beautiful photos! Thank you for sharing Kenji.
Keep on blogging, enjoyed reading all!!

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kenji SAITO October 18, 2014 at 12:07 pm

Aloha Thessa,
Thanks for reading! See you on the next hike!
Mahalo

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Paul Nowakowski October 20, 2014 at 4:04 pm

These were amazing pictures! Thanks for sharing. Better luck catching that sunrise on your 3rd attempt.

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kenji SAITO October 20, 2014 at 7:11 pm

Aloha Paul,
Glad you enjoyed the photos! We will need all the luck we can get to catch that sunrise the next time! Hope everything is well with your family and the ARINC ohana.
Mahalo

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