Fuji-no-Yama 2016

by kenji SAITO on August 11, 2016

Our fourth pilgrimage to the mountain of the rising sun. We arrived in Japan during the sweltering summer. Hot and humid was an understatement. Stick a chopstick in me, I’m done.

Trailhead

Trailhead

Today was Mountain Day in Japan, to provide “opportunities to get familiar with mountains and appreciate blessings from mountains.” With that being said, we packed our bags and left scorching Shinjuku to arrive three hours later in the crisp air of Gotemba New 5th station that used to be the old 2nd station. Must be the new math.

Gotemba Torii

Gotemba Torii

The Gotemba station was a marked contrast to the almost carnival like atmosphere of the more popular Yoshida station where we had started from the previous three years. It barely left a footprint that consists of a small shop, bathrooms, bus stop and an adequate parking lot.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

We pushed off just shy of 10am to begin our hike on the Gotemba trail, which has been described as the most physically hardest route amongst the four trails leading to the summit. The starting elevation is at 1,440 meters (4,724′), which is 2,738′ lower than the more popular Yoshida trail. More elevation to climb. More cardio. Huffing and puffing.

Oishi-chaya

Oishi-chaya

Last chance for refreshments and … hiking sticks. The old shop lady was calculating, probably pegged me as a tourist due to my non-native language skills, 1200 yen … (wait, longer stick) 1900 yen… (wait, stamps ) 2400 yen… (wait, flag) … okay, 2900 yen ($29). Domo arigato gozaimasu.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Leaving the conveniences of civilization behind us.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Japanese knotweeds with their red flowers and green leaves offered a colorful contrast against the volcanic gravel.

Mount Futago

Mount Futago

Mari passing the twin mountains of Futatsuzuka Uezuka and Futatsuzuka Shitazuka. No detour. Stay on the trail.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

The national park covers 474 square miles that includes Mount Fuji, Fuji Five Lakes, Hakone, Izu Peninsula and Izu Islands. No entrance fee. Just a 1,000 yen ($10) donation at the trailhead and you get a shiny button to pin on your backpack.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Clouds rolling down the featureless terrain.

Old 2.5 station

Old 2.5 station

Sitting down at the Jirobo trail marker at an elevation of 1,920 meters (6,300′).

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Starting at a lower altitude than from prior years, helped Mari cope with the transition to thinner air.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

What’s for lunch? Anpan and Pocari Sweat. Tastes better than it sounds.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Hiking in the clouds. The trail had zero shade. Nature provided shade in the form of rolling clouds.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Trail crew passing us on the way down. Hard hats. Safety first.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

On a good day, you can clearly see the summit of Fuji. Cloudy conditions made it less than an ideal day.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Where there are clouds, rain can not be far behind.

6th Station-Goya

6th Station-Goya

Our first hut and it was closed. There are very few huts on this side of the mountain, as compared to the more popular Yoshida trail.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Zig. Zag. Switchback hiking. Zag. Zig.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Hikers were few and far in between on this trail, along with the mountain greetings of “konnichiwa” exchanged between hikers.

Mount Hoei

Mount Hoei

Mari standing in front of Mt. Hoei, a flank volcano, standing at 2,693 meters. In other words, a pimple on Mt. Fuji.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Mari at the 3,000 meter mark (9,842′).

Hinode-kan

Hinode-kan

We arrived at the first open hut at 5pm. No bags of rice for sale here.

Waraji-kan

Waraji-kan

Hey, that flag is bigger than mines.

Yakiin

Yakiin

Every hut has a branding iron specific to them that they will happily impress on your hiking stick. 300 yen ($3) please.

Waraji-kan

Waraji-kan

High above the clouds. Notice the snowboard-turned-seat in the background.

Sunabashiri-kan

Sunabashiri-kan

Another hut. Another stamp. Another 300 yen ($3) shelled out.

Sunabashiri-kan

Sunabashiri-kan

Scenic spot. Once we climbed above the rain clouds and showers, we were blessed with beautiful weather on the mountain.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

I hope that’s our hut. This trail was getting the better of me. Lack of sleep was not helping either. I know. Excuses. Excuses.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Reservations for Saito? We got to our hut sweet hut for the night at 6:20pm. Prince Naruhito, future Emperor of Japan, stayed in this hut in 2008.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Akaiwahachigo-kan

All you can eat curry and hot tea. Free bathrooms. Stacked like sardines horizontally and vertically. Stuffed into musty futons. No prince treatment for us. Mountain hut living at its finest.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Akaiwahachigo-kan

We left the relative warmth of our shuttered hut at 4:14am to venture outside to a 48 degree morning to wait for the sunrise.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Akaiwahachigo-kan

The morning glow of the sun breaking through the clouds.

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Akaiwahachigo-kan

Sunrise at 4:59am. Slightly delayed by cloud cover.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Ringing the bell on our way to the summit at 5:33am.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Nothing like cold mountain air to get your blood flowing in the early morning.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Looking back at the sea of clouds.

Miharashi-kan

Miharashi-kan

Multiple choice. Is this hiker a) passed out from the thin air b) shielding his eyes from the unfiltered sun or c) deeply disappointed to find out that the hut is closed?

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Monument to all the fallen hikers that failed to summit. Actually it’s meant to recognize and honor the people that created this rugged trail.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Panoramic view looking down.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

The final push to the summit.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

We summited Mount Fuji around 7:30am.

Mount Fuji Summit

Mount Fuji Summit

Standing on the edge of the crater as wind gusts threatened to blow us into the maw of the active volcano. Active what?

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Neither snow nor rain nor cold nor high altitude will stay your postcard from being slowly delivered from the highest mountain in the land. Summit temperature was a cool 42 degrees. Not counting wind chill.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

We left the summit a little past 8am. No walk around the crater this year. Too cold and tired. Next year.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Hiking back down into the clouds.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

All downhill. Back to zigging and zagging.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Making our way back down to our hut to get Mari’s backpack. Some huts will allow you to leave your backpack to lighten your load as you hike to the summit.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Goodbye Fuji-san. We will see you again next year.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Last chance to use the bathroom. All out of 100 yen coins.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Panoramic view of the trail going down.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

That’s one way of taking the load off your back. Sledding it down the mountain.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

We left the 6th hut and the mind numbing switchbacks for …

Osunabashiri

Osunabashiri

… the start of the “great sand run.”

Osunabashiri

Osunabashiri

The trail turned into a bed of thick volcanic ash that goes down for 7 km (4.34 miles).

Osunabashiri

Osunabashiri

Clouds started to roll up the mountain, blocking the promised panoramic view of the mountains and city below us.

Osunabashiri

Osunabashiri

It paid to have gaiters or spats to prevent the fine volcanic pebbles from getting into our shoes. I saw several hikers stopped on the sides of the trail emptying out their shoes.

Osunabashiri

Osunabashiri

While at the hut, we heard that there was an injured hiker on the trail. I met this paramedic who was looking for said hiker. Kept on looking.

Osunabashiri

Osunabashiri

Running down the trail as my feet sank up to my ankles with each stride going down. It was crazy fun.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Mari making her way down, the hiking sticks came in handy to help brake our sometimes rapid descent.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

Still no view as we made our way down, passing hikers going up the mountain.

Gotemba Trail

Gotemba Trail

No stopping at the hut. Don’t want to get trapped into overpriced and unnecessary trinkets again.

All pau

All pau

We got back down around 1pm. Our bus back to the train station was at 3:35pm. So much time on our hands. What to do? Filled out a survey. Japanese language only. Here comes the rain again. Fired up my Jetboil and boiled a bowl of beef pho and a cup of hot chocolate. Chatted with a fellow American named John who was from Virginia. Contemplated sharing a taxi to the train station to cut down on the wait time. But in the end, we boarded the bus along with a dozen other smelly hikers to the train station that took us back to Shinjuku.

GPS Tracks

GPS Tracks

Our fourth and hardest hike up Mount Fuji started off cloudy and rainy and ended up with crisp weather, stunning scenery and another epic sunrise. The hike covered 10.44 miles with an elevation gain slightly over 7,600′. Congrats to Mari for finishing her fourth and hardest hike up Mount Fuji. Post hike meal at Coco’s. I come back every year to this restaurant for their Tomato Seafood Spaghetti. Add hot sauce. Broke da mouth.

Leave a Comment

{ 136 comments… read them below or add one }

Darrick J Ching September 26, 2016 at 11:31 am

Mari & Kenji…congratulations on your 4th and hardest hike up the historic and magnificent Mt. Fuji! So beautiful and inspiring! I wish I could do the hike, but Jodi prefers Uniqlo, Tokyu Hands, and the Daiso :).

Thanks for sharing!

What do you have in store for next year?

Reply

kenji SAITO September 26, 2016 at 6:35 pm

Aloha Darrick,
Thank you. Just tell Jodi that they have a Uniqlo outlet at the summit.:) We plan to tackle one of the two trails that we have yet to do next year.
Mahalo

Reply

Mele September 26, 2016 at 4:26 pm

Wow Mari I didn’t even know it was you….looks fun. Just beautiful…

Thanks for sharing your experience. It feels like I was there too.

Mele

Reply

kenji SAITO September 26, 2016 at 6:40 pm

Aloha Mele,
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed the post.
Mahalo

Reply

cheri September 27, 2016 at 9:44 am

Wow Mari. You made it farther than all the other years! congrats

Reply

kenji SAITO September 27, 2016 at 12:56 pm

Aloha Cheri,
Thank you! Yes it was hard going up, but we finally made it and saw a nice sunrise.
Mahalo

Reply

Chris September 27, 2016 at 5:01 pm

Wow.. Very nice! Congrats on your 4th trek on Mt.fuji and watch the sunrise .
One day ,I will visit Mt.fuji and experience all the fun things .
job well done Mari and Kenji

Reply

kenji SAITO September 27, 2016 at 8:10 pm

Aloha Chris,
Thanks. Yes, you should take your kids and make it a family hike and enjoy it together!
Mahalo

Reply

Cheryl Tagawa September 27, 2016 at 9:00 pm

You two are awesome and inspirational!!! Thank you for sharing with me!

Reply

kenji SAITO September 27, 2016 at 9:19 pm

Aloha Cheryl,
Thank you! We are glad you enjoyed the post.
Mahalo

Reply

mike young September 28, 2016 at 7:32 am

Very awesome. Must be a great sense of accomplishment!

Now that I’ve read the book (blog), I can’t wait for the movie.

Reply

kenji SAITO September 28, 2016 at 8:13 am

Aloha Mike,
Thanks! We are casting around looking for the right people to play us. Might be a long wait. LOL.
Mahalo

Reply

Yuki Pedersen September 28, 2016 at 9:11 am

Mari-san, sogoi!! It’s a hard hike up, couldn’t believe you made it all the way to the top! So impressive and thank you so much for sharing! Look forward to see your next year’s post : )

Reply

kenji SAITO September 28, 2016 at 9:40 am

Aloha Yuki,
Thank you! Yes it was hard but the spectacular sunrise at the end made it all worthwhile. We can’t wait for next year too!
Mahalo

Reply

Laura Mattiucci September 28, 2016 at 2:30 pm

Wow, another set of amazing and spectacular pictures! Thank you for sharing your adventure with us all again!

Reply

kenji SAITO September 28, 2016 at 2:38 pm

Aloha Laura,
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the post.
Mahalo

Reply

booboo September 30, 2016 at 6:40 pm

after seeing this hike i dont think i want to hike this with may daughter anymore. it looks way too difficult. people told me would have steps and handrails. they lied. looks like climbing Everest or something. if Mt. Fuji hike looks like that i think i will hike Meru instead.
also, the guy in the photo , kenji , always looks like he ready to die and be add to the hikers monument . i would suggest taking an oxygen tank next time. his daughter , Mari, however, really looks like she is in very good shape. i hope my daughter can make it up to Meru with me and look like that when we get to the top. mahalo.

Reply

kenji SAITO October 1, 2016 at 1:41 am

Aloha Kerwin,
Thanks for one of the funniest comments! Yes there is a route with steps and handrails. You have to pay extra to go on that trail and say the secret password. You can actually take the cable car to meru and save yourself the trouble!
Mahalo

Reply

Cissy October 1, 2016 at 6:21 am

Thanks for sharing the breathtaking photos and great comments! I enjoyed trekking Mt. Fuji with you without leaving Hawaii!

Congrats on accomplishing your mission and look forward to next year when you two go back for more adventure! Well done!

Reply

kenji SAITO October 1, 2016 at 12:28 pm

Aloha Cissy,
Thank you. Always glad to let other people vicariously enjoy Mount Fuji.
Mahalo

Reply

Chris-Chris October 3, 2016 at 2:35 pm

Mari-Mari & Kenji-san

You Did It…AGAIN! 4 times and I have yet to hike it once! Always so nice to view the AMAZING pictures and see the mountain hike first hand!
Thank you for including me and sharing the experience.

~Chris-Chris :)

Reply

kenji SAITO October 3, 2016 at 3:04 pm

Aloha Chris-Chris,
Thank you. Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the vicarious experience. We hope to continue hiking Fuji-san into our twilight years. Well, at least two more times as there are two different trails left to the summit that we have yet to do. :)
Mahalo

Reply

Loren Akana October 7, 2016 at 1:14 pm

Congratulations Mari & Kenji. it’s always great to see your pics of your hikes.

Reply

kenji SAITO October 7, 2016 at 3:01 pm

Aloha Loren,
Thanks! See you at the next GAR?
Mahalo

Reply

Cecelia Hill October 11, 2016 at 8:37 pm

Aloha! I used to work with Kenji in Honolulu at ARINC. These are Awesome photos! What a great accomplishment.

Reply

kenji SAITO October 12, 2016 at 12:19 am

Aloha Harley!
Thanks a bunch! Hope you are kicking it in Cali! We all should get together and have a re-union!
Mahalo

Reply

Stuart October 13, 2016 at 11:47 pm

Finally got to check it out, looks like an awesome trek man I can’t wait to adventure in Japan sometime soon!

Reply

kenji SAITO October 14, 2016 at 5:35 am

Aloha Stuart,
Thanks. Yup, you will have a blast up there!
Mahalo

Reply

Cheryl October 30, 2016 at 4:54 pm

So exciting and thank you for sharing your spectacular adventure! So inspiring… Perhaps a possible bucket list item????

Reply

kenji SAITO October 30, 2016 at 5:15 pm

Aloha Cheryl,
Thank you. Yes, you should add this to your list and do it soon!
Mahalo

Reply

Lester December 2, 2016 at 2:58 pm

The photos and texts clearly shares the amazing experience you had. I’ll invite myself next time :)

Reply

kenji SAITO December 3, 2016 at 6:28 pm

Aloha Lester,
Thanks! Reservations are required. LOL.
Mahalo

Reply

Embla January 25, 2017 at 5:30 pm

Hi Kenji! I noticed your name in the comments of someone else’s blog post about Mt Fuji and I got excited because I always read your blog for Hawaii hikes! You two did it four times, wow!!! I’m planning to go in mid-July, and I’ll be by myself but I figure Japan is safe and the Yoshida trail is easy to follow. I was wondering, how cold was it at the top? I do have a winter jacket and gore-tex gloves, but would you recommend anything more than that? Also, would you have recommendations for the type of footwear I should bring? I usually hike here with trail runners and spikes.. I don’t think I’ll need my spikes, but do you think my trail runners plus gaiters would be fine? I’m mostly concerned about the sandy descent!

Oh! And how did you get your walking sticks back home? I’ve been trying to research how people do it and some people pay up to $150 getting it back to the U.S., while others say that the airlines consider it as 1 check-in. Also, how did you get 22 stamps the first time? I thought it would just be the 5th station, 6th station, 7th station, 8th station, 8.5? 9th? 10th?

Anyway, congrats to you and Mari for making it to the top of Mt. Fuji four times! Have a great time this year too! :)

Reply

kenji SAITO January 25, 2017 at 8:17 pm

Aloha Embla,
Thanks. The temp at the summit can range from low 40s to 30s, depending on the wind chill and other weather conditions. Jacket, gloves and perhaps thermal underwear as a backup should suffice. I always use regular hiking and/or trail runner shoes, spikes are not needed. Gaiters will help to keep out the small rocks on your descent. I just checked in my stick with the oversized luggage section, didn’t cost me anything extra. But it may depend on your airline, we usually fly with Delta. Most of the huts have more than 1 stamp that they peddle to burn on your stick, some have 2-3 stamps and of course there are stamps at the summit itself. We may run into each this year as we plan to make our 5th trip during the same time. Stay safe and have fun!
Mahalo

Reply

Previous post:

Next post: